In March 2023, my wife and I travelled to Jakarta and Yogyakarta. Both cities are located on Java, the most populated island of Indonesia. Indonesia is a country, which consists of over seventeen thousand islands, including Sumatra, Java, Bali, Kalimanthan and others. The country is located in Southeast Asia and Oceania between the Indian and Pacific oceans. The name Indonesia is derived from the Greek words Indos and nesos, which mean Indian Islands.
India has been closely related to Indonesian islands through trade and cultural exchanges since ancient times. Long ago, Indian traders established their settlements on various islands. Subsequently Hindu and Buddhist kingdoms were founded on Indonesian archipelagos. Many cities, towns and objects still retain their Sanskrit names.
Buddhist kingdoms of Srivijaya in Sumatra and Shailendra in Java, and Hindu kingdoms of Sanjay and Majapahit in Java reigned over a large part of territories of modern Indonesia. Those kingdoms flourished over many centuries and contributed to the development of a unique culture and traditions that were aligned with Indian beliefs and institutions. Temples and monasteries, which they built, still dominate the landscape of Indonesian islands, including Bali and Java.
Bali is predominantly a Hindu majority Island. During our previous trip to Indonesia, we visited Bali and were impressed by the grandeur of Hindu monuments, temples and religious rituals practiced by the local population. This time we decided to visit Yogyakarta, which is located in central Java. The largest Buddhist temple Borobudur and one of the largest Hindu temple complexes, Prambanan, are both located near Yogyakarta. Merapi Mount with active volcanic activities is about an hour’s drive from Borobudur and Prambanan.
Australian tourists generally enter Indonesia at Denpasar in Bali or Jakarta in Java if travelling by air. Yogyakarta is well connected with both locations by regular flights. We chose Jakarta for our entry to Indonesia.
Jakarta is the national capital of Indonesia, and is located in the northwest of the Java Island. It is the largest city in Southeast Asia with population estimated to be over eleven million in 2023. Jakarta is the Javanese pronunciation of Sanskrit word ‘Jay Karta’, which means “the achiever of victory”. Being the capital city, Jakarta is the political, economic and cultural centre of Indonesia. During the Dutch colonial era it was called Batavia.
We stayed in Jakarta for a few days and visited some of the local tourist attractions. Notable among them were the Merdeka Square, Monumen Nasional, Museum Nasional, Presidential Palace, Masjid Istiqlal, Cathedral church and a monument of Arjun on a chariot depicting a scene from the Mahabharat. All these attractions are in close proximity to the Merdeka Square.
Merdeka Square is a large square located in central Jakarta. Merdeka is the Indonesian word for freedom or independence. In September 1945, Sukarno, the Indonesian independence leader, declared independence from colonial rule at a grand meeting held in the square. The square measures around one-square kilometre in area and is one of the largest such areas in the world. It is well maintained, with coverings of flowers and greenery. Trees enclose some outer sections of the square. A number of statues and monuments are installed in its different sections. The square is a popular destination for local residents for sports and recreational activities, especially on weekends.
The National Monument, also called Monas (Monumen Nasional), is located in the centre of the square. It is a 132m-high tower surrounded by spacious paved areas near its ground floor, and also on a higher level. Below the monument is an underground museum that displays exhibits highlighting events of Indonesian history from the ancient period to modern age. Hindu and Buddhist periods are munificently displayed in the museum. The monument is reached through an underground tunnel from the ticketing area. Visitors are allowed access to the top of the tower by a lift. Tourists crowd the area, and even during a lean period, one has to wait for hours to obtain access to the top floor of the monument.
The monument hosts national events such as military parades as well as civil demonstrations. Surrounding the Monument is a park with a musical fountain and a deer enclosure, where they roam freely.
Masjid Istiqlal is the largest mosque in Southeast Asia. Its dome is 45m across and the minaret tops 90m high. Directly opposite the mosque is a huge cathedral church.
The Presidential palace, National Museum and many government buildings are located around the Merdeka Square. Not far from the Museum, Arjun’s monument is a reminder of the ancient Indian connection of the region.
The National Museum is full of displays depicting Hindu gods and goddesses, kings and queens, Buddha and many stone pillars with Sanskrit inscriptions. At the entrance of the museum, there is large forecourt, which is full of objects of Hindu and Buddhist origin, found in different regions of the Indonesian archipelagos.
From Jakarta, we travelled to Yogyakarta. It is around an hour’s flight from Jakarta.
Yogyakarta is the capital of Special Region of Yogyakarta in central Java. Yogyakarta is named after the Indian city Ayodhya, the birthplace of Shree Ram, the main protagonist of the Ramayan. Its English translation is a “city fit to prosper”. The major attractions in the city are the Sultan’s Palace, known as Kraton, Taman Sari (also a palace), fort Benteng Vredeburg and a number of museums.
The region was previously known as Bhumi Mataram, the Javanese word derived from Sanskrit for “Mother Earth”. King Sanjay was the founder and the first king of the Mataram kingdom. Contemporary to Sanjay was another king named Shailendra, who ruled the adjoining region. The Sanjay dynasty kings were Shaivite Hindus and Shailendra kings were followers of Mahayan Buddhism. These two dynasties were great builders.
Major tourist attractions outside the city such as Borobudur, Prambanan and other Buddhist and Hindu temples were built during their time. An adventure tourist attraction, the Merapi mount with active volcanic activity, is also located in this region.
Borobudur is translated as ‘Buddha Vihar’ or ‘Buddha on Hills’ or Supreme Buddha. “Boro” means Vihar as well as hills and supreme, and “Budur” means Buddha. It is the largest Buddhist temple in the world. It is a UNESCO listed World Heritage Site. Borobudur is located 42 km from Yogyakarta. Mountains and hills surround it. It was built between the end of the 7th century and the beginning of the 8th century. It has the form of a Stupa, which contains sacred objects as a symbol of respect for Buddha. Shailendra dynasty kings who ruled over the area from the end of the 7th century to the 9th century built this grand temple.
The base of the temple is 123m x123m square and its original height was 42 meters. The height has reduced due to damage from lightening strikes and earthquakes. The temple consists of nine stacked platforms, of which six are square and three circular. A central dome tops it. It is decorated with 2,672 relief panels and originally there were 504 Buddha statues. Seventy-two Buddha statues, each seated inside a perforated stupa surround the central dome. The relief panels depict the life story of Buddha from birth to his Nirvan. The design of the temple conforms to the style of Mahayan Buddhism.
All visitors must wear specially designed slippers made of leaves to ascend the temple. The access road to the temple passes through a huge park lined with trees and flower gardens. Established Ashok and Peepal trees are grown along the access route. Their original saplings were brought from India.
Borobudur lay hidden under layers of volcanic ash and jungle growth for centuries. It is believed that the temple was deserted when the population converted to Islam in the 15th century. It was rediscovered and unearthed in 1835. Subsequently through many restoration works, the temple has attained its current form. It attracts a large number of tourists from all over the world.
A number of other Buddhist temples including the Pawan and Mendut temples are located in the vicinity of Borobudur.
Merapi Mount is an active volcanic site, which last erupted on 11 March 2023. The mount can be seen from the Borobudur temple on a clear day. One can see smoke emitting from the mount cone. The word Merapi is derived from Meru, the legendary mountain, which is believed to be located on the centre of the earth. Tour operators arrange tours up to the base of the mountain. A museum located at the base displays scenes relating to the mount, terrain and volcanic eruptions.
Prambanan is the Javanese pronunciation of Sanskrit Parabrahma, the supreme God. The term Prambanan is used for the Hindu temple complex, which consists of around two hundred forty temples. It is a UNESCO listed World Heritage Site. The complex is arranged in three rectangular courtyards. Sixteen temples were originally built in the central courtyard. The remaining temples were housed in the second courtyard, which surrounded the central area. The third courtyard, surrounding the second, was a green space with an external wall.
Sanjay dynasty kings built this temple complex. The first temple was built around 850 AD. According to an inscription found in the region, the Shiva temple was inaugurated on 12 November 856. It was built to honour Lord Shiva, and its original name was Shivalay, the house of Shiva. The whole complex was completed over many years.
The temples were abandoned in the middle of the tenth century. A devastating eruption of the Mount Merapi volcano or a political power struggle is assumed to be the reason for the neglect. The temples collapsed during a major earthquake in the 16th century.
In the eighteen-century, the ruins attracted the attention of western archaeologists who prepared reports on them. The government of the time took a keen interest in the findings. Subsequently, restoration works started which continue to date.
The main temples in the central courtyard were dedicated to Shiva, Brahma, Vishnu, their mounts and some other still unidentified deities. They are the main attractions of the site and are identified as Prambanan temple. It is the largest Hindu temple complex of ancient Java.
The Shiva temple is the largest building located in the centre. It is 47m high and its base measures 34m x 34m. Its Garbh-Grih is located at elevation and is accessible through steep stone stairs. Large standing statues of Shiva Mahadev, Mahaguru Agastya, Mahishasur Mardini and a sitting statue of Ganesh are located in separate rooms in four directions of the temple at the Garbh-Grih level. They are accessible through their own distinct stairways.
The Brahma temple is located to the south of the Shiva temple. Its’ square base measures 20m x 20m and it is 33m high. It has only one room as Garbh-Grih accommodating the statue of Brahma. It can be reached through a stone stairway.
The Vishnu temple is located to the north of the Shiva temple. It is identical in layout and structure to the Brahma temple, with a statue of Vishnu in the Garbh-Grih. Many visitors can be seen in the mode of supplication to the divine statues.
Secondary temples that include the Nandi temple, Hansa temple and Garuda temple are dedicated to their respective mounts and face the primary temples. In addition, there are other temples in the central courtyard. Visitors are allowed a Darshan of statues in the main three temples. The Garbh-Grihs of other temples are not open to visitors. None of the temples is used for active worship.
The temple walls are full of relief panels, depicting stories from ancient India. The reliefs on the Shiva and Brahma temples display stories from the Ramayan. The Vishnu temple wall reliefs depict stories relating to Krishna from the Bhagavat Puran. A regular show of the Ramayan ballet or Ramleela episodes is played in an area adjoining the main temples.
The temples in the central court are maintained in good condition and are the main attraction of the site. To view the temples in the outer areas, one has to ride a car-train, which is driven regularly in the complex.
In addition to the main Prambanan temple, there are many other temples in the Yogyakarta region. Notable among them are the Sajiwan temple, Plaosan temple and Kalasan temple. The whole region reminds visitor of its glorious ancient Indian heritage.
Attraction of local inhabitants to their heritage is noticeable in this region. Many shops have their Sanskrit names. Statues of Ganesh, Buddha, Lakshmi, Saraswati, Garuda and other Indian characters can be seen in hotels and shops.