Angkor Wat is the principal temple of Angkorian region, located in Northwest Cambodia. Cambodia is a Southeast Asian country with capital Phnom Penh. Cambodia’s population is estimated at 16.5 million. Around ninety-seven per cent of its population follows Theravad Buddhism, which is the official religion of the country. The remaining population follows Christianity, Islam, tribal traditions and other religions.
Like in several other Southeast Asian countries, the primary religion in ancient Cambodia was Hinduism. Both Shaivism and Vaishnavism, based on Shiva and Vishnu worship traditions respectively, had been practiced in Cambodia. Later, Mahayan and Theravad Buddhism became the dominant state religion. Cambodians adopted the Indian religions on their merits. The acceptance of Indian religions by Cambodians demonstrates the close relationship between India and Cambodia in the past.
Reliable information detailing the ancient relationship between the two countries is limited. According to a popular legend prevalent in Cambodia, it originated as a country from the union of an intelligent Hindu youth from India named Kaundinya and a daughter of the serpent king, who ruled over the water that submerged the land of Cambodia in ancient times.
Kaundinya sailed over the sea close to the region of Cambodia. Princess Nagi, the daughter of the serpent king of the watery realm, paddled over the water towards him. He saw the princess and shot a magic arrow in her direction, which caused her to fall in love with him. The serpent king arranged the wedding of his daughter with the youth, and removed the water to make the land available for them to live, prosper and procreate. The land area was named Kambuj, which later became Kampuchia and then Cambodia. Their children and descendants populated the land of Cambodia.
Our recent trip to Cambodia started from Siem Reap, which is a provincial capital with an international airport. It is the nearest town to Angkor Wat and is the centre for sightseeing tours to various historical temples and monuments in the region. Angkor National Museum, Cambodian Circus, Wat Bo and other Buddhist Monasteries, and the night market in and around Pub Street are major attractions in Siem Reap. Vendors selling fried scorpions, snakes and worms can be seen in Pub Street.
The word Angkor is a Khmer pronunciation of the Sanskrit word “Nagar” which means capital city. The term Khmer is used for the Cambodian language as well as for the Cambodian people. Wat also has its root in Sanskrit and Pali languages and is translated as temple or Buddhist monastery.
As there are many ancient monuments in the region, tours in the region are generally spread over many days. Visitors have the choice to buy one day, three day and seven day entry tickets priced at 37/62/72USD respectively. In two days, a tourist can visit most of the major attractions. The US Dollar is almost universally accepted currency for transactions in Cambodia.
Tour operators have arranged their sightseeing itineraries as small tour circuit and grand tour circuits. The small tour circuit includes Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom with Bayon in the middle, Ta Keo, Ta Prohm and Banteay Kdei temples and monuments. The grand tour circuits include the above-mentioned sites plus Preah Khan, Neak Poan, Ta Som, East Mebon and Pre Rup temples. Tour operators and guides are mostly willing to accommodate requests to visit other sites. Each of the above listed sights is a fascinating monument that displays the creativity of ancient Cambodians.
The main attraction in the Angkorian region is the Angkor Wat temple. The original name of Angkor Wat was “Barom Visnulok” in Khmer, which means the sacred abode of lord Vishnu. The temple structure denotes mount Meru, the mythological mountain where gods reside.
The Hindu king Suryavarman II built the Angkor Wat temple during his reign from 1112 to approximately 1150 AD. Prior to him, other kings had established their capital cities near the same area and had built numerous grand temples and palaces. Ruins of some of them are included in small and grand tour circuits. The majority of the ancient temples were dedicated to lord Shiva. Angkor Wat was dedicated to lord Vishnu.
The Angkor Wat temple complex is one of the largest religious buildings in the world and covers an area of 163 hectares. The whole building complex is surrounded by a moat filled with water. The building is designed in ascending order from west to east with a number of levels, galleries and Gopuram towers. The central Gopuram tower is 65m high. Walls of the building are filled with stone carvings based on stories from Hindu Scriptures such as the Ramayan, the Mahabharat, and Purans. Themes depicting deities and demons churning the milky ocean, Apsaras, nymphs dancing in various poses, Vishnu’s incarnations, Krishna’s childhood pastimes, bird Garuda, snake Vasuki, elephant Aerawat, Indra and other guardians of directions and regions, and other religious stories are elaborately carved on building walls and towers.
The next famed king of Angkor was Jayavarman VII who ruled from 1181 to 1220AD. He was also a great builder and built palaces, temples and irrigation infrastructure. He was a follower of Mahayan Buddhism. He modified and added structures to Angkor Wat with Buddhist themes.
Jayavarman VIII, a Hindu king who reigned between 1243 to 1295AD, attempted to restore and improve Angkor Wat and other old Hindu temples. With the arrival and broad acceptance of Theravad Buddhism in fourteenth century Cambodia, further alterations and additions were made to Angkor Wat. The additions were mostly made of wooden structure, which did not survive for long. Angkor Wat was a prominent temple complex until the end of sixteenth century. During the years after its glorious heydays, Angkor Wat remained a pilgrimage site for observant Buddhists.
Angkor Thom was the largest capital city of the ancient Khmer kingdom, with palaces, temples and other public buildings. A gated wall surrounded the whole complex. Bayon temple, presumably dedicated to the four-faced lord Brahma, in the middle of Angkor Thom, has a number of Gopuram towers with faces carved in stones. It is an incredible attraction in Angkor Thom.
Ta Keo was built as a Shiva temple. Steps leading to its upper sections are so steep that one has to crawl on them to climb up or down. A similar steep steps construction is found in many other temples. Ta Prohm and Banteay Kdei were also walled cities. The Indian Archaeological Department is assisting Cambodia in restoring Ta Prohm.
Sites and monuments included in the grand tour circuits are similarly impressive. In addition there are many other temples, monuments and sites of tourist interest. Notably among them are floating villages on water that are exciting attractions in the region.
Numerous Shiva Lingas and bases for them alone can be seen in many old temples. Some temples display Buddha Statues where visitors offer prayers. One can see overgrown trees encompassing ancient statues and building walls in a number of temple complexes.
During the French colonial rule over Cambodia, Henri Mouhout, a French explorer passed through the Angkor Wat area and wrote a travel diary, which was published in 1863. His description of the temples in the region attracted many adventurers from Europe to explore this area further. The author is recognised as the finder of Angkor Wat hidden in the Jungle. This claim of the French discovering Angkor Wat in the nineteenth century is not universally accepted. Other European travellers had also described it earlier in their travel diaries.
The French colonial government undertook and funded restoration works to recondition Angkor Wat and other temples during its rule. The work continued after Cambodia won independence in 1953, and continues to date. Many countries including India are currently participating in restoration works of ancient temples and associated structures.
Angkor Wat has played a significant role in Hinduism and Buddhism. Considering its important role in the history of Cambodia, United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO) declared it as a World Heritage Site in 1992.
Angkor Wat is the national symbol of Cambodia and its Gopuram towers are depicted on the national flag.
During our journey from Siem Reap to capital Phnom Penh by road, we noticed a flat landscape dotted with villages and towns that reminded us of the landscape of India. It is common to see a Buddhist temple/stupa in front of houses and businesses.
Phnom Penh, Cambodia’s capital city is large and bustling with a population of over 2 million people. The Royal Palace, Silver Pagoda, Wat Phnom, Cambodia – Vietnam Friendship Park and Monument, Independence Monument, Norodom Sihanouk Statue, Genocide Museum and Killing Fields are major tourist attractions.
The Silver Pagoda is a beautiful Buddhist temple in the Royal Palace complex in Phnom Penh. Murals based on stories from the Ramayan are drawn on walls enclosing the Silver Pagoda. The Genocide Museum and Killing Fields relate to the tragic events during the reign of Pol Pot regime from 1975 to 1979. The river Tonle Sap meets the mighty river Mekong near Phnom Penh. Riverside areas are very scenic and well developed to cater for recreational activities.
Cambodians are friendly people and we noted their natural respect towards Indians. Ongoing cooperation in restoring ancient monuments, tourism and cultural exchange should help strengthen our ancient historic bonds.