Gangasagar – Confluence of River Ganga with the Sea

Recently, my wife and I had an opportunity to visit several sacred sites in eastern India. These included Gangasagar, Dakshineshwar Kali Temple and Belur Math in Kolkata and Baba Baidyanath Dham temple in Deoghar.

Gangasagar is an island in the Ganga delta, about one hundred kilometres south of Kolkata, India. It is also known as Sagardwip or Sagar Island. The River Ganga is fully merged with the sea in the Bay of Bengal at the southern tip of the island. A temple dedicated to Kapil Muni is located at the site. It contains images of sage Kapil, River Ganga, king Bhagirath, Indra and other Hindu deities. Sage Kapil was an incarnation of lord Vishnu. He was the founder of the Sankhya Philosophy, one of the six ancient Hindu philosophical traditions. Sage Kapil is also associated with the advent of River Ganga on the earth.

According to the legend, king Sagar of ancient Ikshvaku dynasty planned to perform a Rajsuya Yagya. Following the custom, a sacrificial horse was released to roam over the earth to demonstrate his unrestricted authority, before the Yagya could be completed. Indra, the king of deities, was envious of king Sagar’s glories and decided to disrupt his Yagya. He stole the horse and hid it at the Ashram of sage Kapil. Kapil’s Ashram was at the southern tip of the modern Gangasagar Island, which was believed to be located in the netherworld in ancient times. Sixty thousand sons of king Sagar were following the horse. They found it at Kapil’s Ashram and noticed him in deep meditation. They assumed that sage Kapil had stolen the horse and he was simply pretending to be meditating to deceive them.

They spoke ill of the sage and created an upheaval that led to disruption of the sage’s meditation. Kapil opened his eyes and looked at the troublemakers. All the sixty thousand sons of Sagar burnt to ashes due to the sage’s anger. When the horse did not return to the capital, king Sagar sent his grandson Anshuman to find out what had happened. On his mission, Anshuman eventually found the horse at Kapil’s Ashram. On enquiry, he learnt that his sixty thousand uncles had perished there due to their misbehaviour with the sage.

Anshuman pleaded with the sage for a way to emancipate his uncles. As their proper rites of cremation were not performed, their souls would be roaming as ghosts and hounding the family offspring until they were released from the effect of the anger of the sage.

Sage Kapil became pleased with Anshuman’s candour and advised him that his uncles’ souls would become free if their ashes came in contact with River Ganga. The River Ganga resided in the heaven during that period. Now it was the responsibility of king Sagar to bring River Ganga on the earth. King Sagar did not succeed in bringing Ganga to the earth.

His grandson king Anshuman and great grandson king Dilip also remained ineffective in bringing Ganga to the earth. It was the king Bhagirath, the son of Dilip, who was able to please Brahma, who instructed Ganga to come to the earth. King Bhagirath also gratified lord Shiva to hold Ganga on his head to tame her flow. Finally Ganga descended on the earth and following the path led by Bhagirath, came to the spot where the ashes of his deceased ancestors were left. By the effect of the contact with Ganga’s water, all sixty thousand sons of Sagar were emancipated.

It was on the Makar Sankranti day when Ganga reached Gangasagar. It is believed that taking a dip at Gangasagar frees a person and his/her ancestors from the cycle of birth and death. Although pilgrims visit the Gangasagar Island throughout the year, during the Makar Sankranti festival on 14 January, thousands of pilgrims come to take a holy dip at the confluence of Ganga with the sea. A huge fair is organised at the site during this period.

There is a popular saying about Gangasagar. “Sab tirath bar bar, Gangasagar ek bar” i.e. all sacred sites can be visited many times but one trip to Gangasagar is enough. It reveals the difficulties associated with travel to Gangasagar due to its remoteness in ancient times. Now, it is well connected with various modes of transport. We were able to complete the trip to Gangasagar in one day from Kolkata, which involves journey by train or bus, car, ferry and riksa.

Kolkata, the capital of the Indian state of West Bengal, is one of the highly populous cities in the world. It was the capital of British India until 1911. River Ganga, which is known as Bhagirathi Ganga or Hooghly, flows through the city. There are many well-known temples and religious institutions located in the city. Among them, Dakshineshwar Kali Temple and Belur Math are its outstanding landmarks. Both are associated with Ramakrishna and Vivekananda, who made both temples world famous.

Dakshineshwar Kali Temple is located on the east side of the Hooghly River. Rani Rashmoni, a devotee of Mother Kali and a philanthropist, built the temple. Kali is a manifestation of goddess Parvati, spouse of lord Shiva. The temple complex is spread over 20 acres and was completed in 1855. Pandit Gadadhar, who later became famous as Ramakrishna Paramahansa, was the priest at the temple.  His wife Sharada Devi also lived at the temple. Devotees venerate her as Ma Sharada. Swami Vivekananda visited the temple regularly after he became a disciple of Ramakrishna Paramahansa.

The main temple has an imposing nine-spired top construction. A statue of Mother Kali is installed in the sanctum sanctorum. In front of the main temple, twelve Shiva temples, each dedicated to a Jyotirlinga, are located facing the River as well as the main Kali temple. One Radha Krishna temple is also located in the complex. In addition, a number of other buildings in the compound serve various spiritual and administrative purposes. 

Belur Math is located on the west bank of the Hooghly River downstream of Dakshineshwar Kali Temple. A regular ferry service operates between the two shrines. Belur Math is the dedicated head quarter of Ramakrishna Math and Mission. Swami Vivekananda, the chief disciple of Ramakrishna, founded it. The main building was completed in 1938. The Math complex contains a number of buildings. The main building has a large hall for sitting and meditation. A marble statue of Ramakrishna Paramahansa is installed in its sanctum sanctorum. Devotees sit on the floor, meditate upon the supreme God and pay respect to the statue of Ramakrishna.

A Ramakrishna museum located in the Math complex displays items associated with Ramakrishna, Ma Sharada, Vivekananda and other heads and scholars related to the Ramakrishna tradition. The Ramakrishna tradition, propagated by Swami Vivekananda, follows Advaita Vedanta. A bookshop in the compound sells religious texts related to Advaita Vedanta as well as on other spiritual and educational subjects. A shrine dedicated to Vivekananda is also located at the site. In the Math complex, there is a large quiet open space facing the river, which makes it an ideal place for relaxation and spiritual meditation.

On the way from Kolkata to Patna, a well-known pilgrimage site is Deoghar in the Jharkhand state of India. A temple known as Baba Baidyanath Dham Temple, dedicated to a Jyotirlinga of lord Shiva, is located in Deoghar.  The Temple site is also believed to be a Shakti Peeth where a limb of mother Sati, wife of lord Shiva fell on the ground during his cosmic dance holding his dead wife. A temple dedicated to Sakti Peeth is also located near the Jyotirlinga temple. In total, there are twenty-two temples in the Baidyanath Dham Temple complex.

A number of legends are popular about the Baba Baidyanath Dham Temple.  According to one legend, the Demon king Ravan prayed to lord Shiva at this site and offered his heads as sacrifice. Lord Shiva was pleased with his devotion and appeared before him as a Baidya or doctor and cured his injuries arising due to severing of his heads. Hence Shiva is worshipped as Baidya and the place is known as Baidyanath Dham.

Another legend relates to Ravan transporting lord Shiva from Kailash Mountain to his capital Lanka. Shiva was to live permanently in Lanka. Shiva agreed to the proposal of moving to Lanka, provided Ravan carried him without placing him on the earth until reaching his final resting place in Lanka.

Deities were alarmed by the idea of the proposed permanent residence of Shiva in Lanka. With the help of sage Narad, they planned a strategy to disrupt Ravan’s journey.

Deities induced a strong need in Ravan to relieve his bladder. Narad appeared as a person near him at that time. To maintain Shiva’s sanctity, Ravan handed him over to Narad to hold for some time and went to empty his bladder. However, observing the delay in Ravan’s return, Narad placed Shiva on the ground and left. On his return, Ravan found Shiva on the ground. He pleaded with Shiva to continue the journey with him to Lanka. Shiva reminded him of the condition he had stipulated, prior to agreeing to being transported to Lanka. In the end, Shiva remained put and a temple was built to house him at the site.

During the month of Shravan (July – August), hundreds of thousands of pilgrims known as Kanwarias visit the shrine, and offer water collected at Sultanganj in Bihar from River Ganga to the Shiva’s Jyotirlinga. Being a Jyotirlinga temple, it remains very popular in eastern India. The whole complex was renovated a few years ago but despite improvements made to the site, it remains very crowded throughout the year. Deoghar is well connected by roads and rails to all major cities in India.

Bihar – The Land of Monasteries

My wife and I visited some of the sacred and historical sites of Bihar, India. Bihar is an Indian state that borders on Nepal in the north, West Bengal in the east, Uttar Pradesh in the west and Jharkhand in the south. Its capital Patna is situated on the right bank of river Ganga that flows from west to east dividing the state in two parts, the northern part being larger than the southern in area.

Phonetically Bihar is a relaxed pronunciation of the term “Vihar”.  It means “Buddhist monastery” in Indian languages. The region of current Bihar was once filled with Buddhist monasteries and hence the area became popular as the “land of monasteries” or “Bihar”.

The region has played a significant role in the history of South Asia. The ancient kingdoms of Magadh, Mithila, Anga, Vaishali and Bhojpur that are a part of modern Bihar are mentioned in spiritual Hindu texts and were known for their achievements and contribution to religion, culture, politics and social development.

Our tour started from Muzaffarpur, the largest town and commercial centre in North Bihar. This region is famous for the production of litchi, a delicious fruit. Muzaffarpur is well connected to Nepal by road, and has a major railway junction in North Bihar. Airfield at Patahi is being developed as an airport for Muzaffarpur.

One hundred years ago, in April 1917, Mahatma Gandhi arrived in Muzaffarpur with Raj Kumar Shukla. Mr Shukla had invited Gandhi ji to help address the grievances of Indigo producers in Champaran, Bihar. In April this year in Bihar, celebrations marked the centenary of the Champaran movement, which helped bring Gandhi ji to the forefront of the Indian Independence movement.

Baba Garibnath temple is a famous Shiva temple in Muzaffarpur that attracts devotees from far and wide.  Janakpur, the capital of King Janak and Sitamarhi, the place where Janak found Sita, the wife of Lord Rama during ploughing the land are easily accessible from Muzaffarpur.

Vaishali, the capital of ancient Lichchavi Republic, is not far from Muzaffarpur.  Jain Tirthankar Mahavir was born in the Vaishali region. Buddha visited Vaishali many times and stayed and preached there. Major attractions in Vaishali include the Ashoka pillar, Shanti Stupa (world peace pagoda), a museum displaying items obtained from excavation of nearby historical sites and a lake.

Hajipur is the last town in North Bihar on the way from Muzaffarpur to Patna. Sonepur, a town close to Hajipur, is the venue of the largest animal fair during Kartik Purnima, around September – October. The Pauranic story of the fight between the elephant and crocodile occurred at Sonepur, where Lord Vishnu saved the elephant from its attacker, the crocodile. The area is also known as Harihar Kshetra or the area of Lord Vishnu and Shiva.

Gandhi Setu Bridge connects North Bihar to Patna at Hajipur. At the time of construction, this 5.75 km bridge was the largest river bridge in the world.

Our next destination was Patna, the capital of Bihar. It has been known by many names including Kusumpur, Patliputra and Ajimabad. King Ajatshatru established this city as the capital of his kingdom of Magadha over 2,500 years ago. The current name Patna was given to the city by Shershah Suri in the sixteen century, when Patna was his capital.

The Mouryan Empire united the whole of India and had its capital in Patna. Many dynasties including the Gupta, Sunga and Pala ruled their kingdoms from Patna. Patna is full of historical, religious, cultural and administrative buildings, parks, museums and monuments.

Mahavir Mandir in front of the Patna Junction is an impressive temple dedicated to Lord Hanuman. Acharya Kishore Kunal, a retired Indian Police Service (IPS) officer is the secretary of the Mahavir Temple Trust. He played an active role in building the present temple and was instrumental in appointing a Dalit priest there. He also led the renovations of many old temples in the state.

Acharya Kunal has been awarded with many medals for his philanthropic works. He has established the Cancer Institute and Research Centres in Patna, and hospitals and health care centres. We shared the same residence for some time in Varanasi, and I was fortunate to meet him by chance at the Mahavir Mandir after a very long time.

Harmandir Sahib Gurudwara is a famous Sikh temple in Patna. Pilgrims from all over the world visit this shrine. Guru Govind Singh, the tenth Guru of Sikhs, was born in Patna. Maharaja Ranjit Singh built this temple in his honour.

Golghar, a well-known landmark in Patna, is located near Gandhi Maidan. It was built in 1786 as a grain store to protect the British army from famine. The building is built in Stupa structure style with a wall thickness of 3.6 m at the base. One can reach the top of the Golghar by climbing 145 steps. From the top, a panoramic view of Patna and the river Ganga can be observed.

The Patna Planetarium, Buddha Smriti Park, Gandhi Maidan, Sanjay Gandhi Jaivik Udyan Zoo, Khuda Baksh Library are some of the other renowned sights, among many other tourist attractions in Patna.

The river Sone and river Punpun on the right side and river Gandak on the left side meet river Ganga near Patna.

We next visited Dev, located around 160 km southwest from Patna, travelling via Paliganj and Aurangabad. Dev is a small town famous for the Sun Temple. Every year during Chhath Puja in the month of Chaitra (March – April) and Kartik (October-November), devotees from many parts of Bihar come to this temple to offer their prayers. Chhath Puja is a thanksgiving ceremony to celebrate the Sun god, who is considered to be the cause of a good harvest. Many other legends are also attributed to this celebration.

About 80 km northeast from Dev is the city of Gaya, a popular tourist destination and religious centre for Hindus and Buddhists.

Prince Siddhartha Gautam obtained enlightenment under the Peepal (sacred fig) tree near Gaya, at the bank of the river Niranjana, also known as river Falgu, and became the Buddha. Now the place is called Bodh Gaya and is a major pilgrimage centre for Buddhists from all over the world.

Emperor Ashoka visited the enlightenment site in around 250 BC, and built a shrine there. The Mahabodhi temple is built at the enlightenment site and the Peepal tree is located next to the temple. The current temple structure dates backs to 5th – 6th century. The current Peepal tree is believed to have been grown from the original tree. Buddhist countries have built many other Buddha temples in Bodh Gaya in their national styles.  Bodh Gaya has plenty of modern hotels and is well connected by road to Patna. Gaya airport close to Bodh Gaya receives international flights.

Gaya is a sacred city for Hindus where people come to offer Pind-Daan, a symbolic meal offering, for the salvation of their ancestors. Among many other temples, Vishnupad is the most prominent, due to its Pauranic references. According to a legend, Lord Vishnu pushed the demon king Gayasur down to the nether world using his feet, to protect both human and divine populations. Vishnupad temple is built on the site where this event occurred. Ahilya Bai, ruler of Indore, built the current temple in 1787.

Our next destination was Rajgir, ancient name Rajgriha. It was the capital of Magadha Kingdom in ancient times. King Jarasandh, an important character in the Mahabharata, was born here.  Buddha spent many years at the foothills of Rajgir and preached from there. A World Peace Pagoda is located at the top of a hill in Rajgir and is a major tourist attraction reachable by a ropeway. Many hot water springs can be found in the hills in and around Rajgir. The water from these springs is believed to have medicinal properties and has ability to cure skin diseases and other ailments.  

The ruins of the ancient Nalanda University are located about 15 km from Rajgir. It was a residential university with the capacity to accommodate 10,000 students and 2,000 teachers. It was established during the reign of Gupta Emperor Kumargupta in the 5th century. It was an international centre of learning at that time. The entire region of Nalanda and surrounding districts were also full of Buddhist monasteries. Famous Chinese travellers Huen Tsang and Fa-Hi Yan have given vivid description of the university and Buddhist monasteries in their writings.

The whole university complex was lit on fire in 1193 by the Islamic invader Bakhtiyar Khilaji. The libraries continued to burn for months, thus destroying the intellectual treasure of ancient India. The current chief minister of Bihar, Nitish Kumar, has established a new Nalanda University, following the model of ancient teachings used in the original university.

Our next destination was Pawapuri, half an hour drive away from Nalanda. It is 101 km from Patna. Pawapuri is a sacred site for Jains. The 24th Tirthankar, Mahavir Jain, attained Nirvana salvation at this place. Following his death, it is believed that a large number of people came to the site of his Nirvana to pay him their respect, and took some soil from the site as a symbol of blessing from him. It created a big pond. A Jain temple, known as Jal-Mandir is built in the middle of the pond, which now measures 1,451 feet long and 1,223 feet wide. A number of other temples built of white marbles are located in the vicinity of the Jal-Mandir.

As described above, Bihar has a huge potential for national and international tourism. To boost visitors’ interest and numbers, the appropriate infrastructure needs to be installed.

The area of modern day Bihar has experienced many glorious and bleak periods. It has produced great personalities such as the Buddha, Mahavir Jain and Guru Govind Singh, who have established world religions. Works of Chanakya, an advisor of king Chandragupta, continue to inspire politicians interested in just governance. Chandragupta Mourya, the founder of the Mourya dynasty, evicted foreign invaders of his time and built the Grand Truck Road that connects northeast India to the Northwest, to Afghanistan.  Emperor Ashoka established hospitals for humans and also for animals. He spread ideals of Buddhism overseas.

In modern India, the first president Dr Rajendra Prasad, national political leader Loknayak Jay Prakash Narayan and national poet Ramdhari Singh Dinkar from Bihar remains a source of inspiration for many Indians.  The Bihari diaspora can be found in large numbers in Mauritius, Fiji and British Guyana, Australia, USA and many other countries.

Modern Bihar is on the path of progress under the leadership of Chief Minister, Nitish Kumar. Road transport, electricity supply, education, empowerment of women, prohibition of alcoholic drinks and other similar projects are improving the general condition of the population.  A lot of more work is to be done to make Bihar a just and prosperous state.

Great Buddha in Japan

Nippon, the name of Japan in Japanese, is translated as the Land of the Rising Sun.  It is a country in East Asia comprising over 6,800 islands, of which 430 are inhabited. The five main islands are Honshu, Hokkaido, Kyushu, Shikoku and Okinawa. Honshu is the largest and most populous island with the capital Tokyo and other large cities located on it.

As per Worldometer, the current population of Japan is 126.6 million and it ranks 11th in the world on population, with population density of 347 per km2. About 92% of population live in urban areas. It ranks 61st on total area.

Shinto and Buddhism are the main religions in Japan. Shinto developed as an indigenous religion and in many respects, its practices are similar to those in Hinduism. Natural objects such as the Sun, Moon, Earth, Fire, Air, Mountains, Rivers and Spirit of deceased persons are venerated as deities in Shinto. The Holy Kojiki is the sacred book of Shinto religion. It was written in 712AD and is also known as the Records of Ancient Matters. It contains legends relating to Creation of various deities and Japanese islands, Creation of humans and other living things. The Japanese emperor is believed to be a direct descendent of deities. Shinto’s sacred buildings are termed Shrines. They are identified with a specially designed gate, known as Torii, in front of them.

Buddhism was introduced to Japan from Korea in mid-sixth century. To strengthen its alliance with Japan, a Korean king presented a statue of Buddha, along with a letter highlighting the importance of Buddha, the founder of Buddhism, to the Japanese Emperor. Impressed by the teachings of Buddha, and his international standing, Buddhism was accepted as a state religion in Japan by the Emperor. Its status was further enhanced during the Tang dynasty rule in China, which had imported sacred Buddhist texts from India, and shared them with the Japanese Imperial palace.

Subsequently, Shinto and Buddhism complemented each other in Japan. Many Japanese people worship Shinto deities as well as Buddha. Normally, it is believed that Shinto fulfils the requirements of the current life, where as Buddhism takes care of the afterlife.

Japan was devastated by two atomic bombs during the Second World War. Over a short period of time, it recovered and rebuilt the nation. Now, it is the third largest economy based on gross domestic product. Japan is the only Asian country categorised as a developed nation of the world. Its achievements are a source of inspiration for others.

A number of fascinating sites in Japan, with natural beauty, including mountains, lakes and hot water springs, temples, shrines, parks, museums, monuments and castles attract a large number of tourists from all over the world.

My wife Sudha and I recently visited Japan, which was a memorable experience. Our trip started in Tokyo.

Tokyo, with a population over 13 million, is one of the largest cities in the world. The city was known as Edo in earlier times, and it became the capital of Japan in 1868. Narita and Haneda are its major international airports. Narita is located about 60 km away from Tokyo and takes over an hour by train or fast bus to the city. Public transport, especially metro, is convenient to use, as stations and directions are clearly marked in both Japanese and English.

A number of Shinto shrines, Buddhist temples, parks, monuments, high-rise buildings, museums and shopping complexes are located in the city. The Games of the XXXII Olympiad, also known as Tokyo 2020, is an upcoming major international sport event in Tokyo.

Meiji-Jingu is a popular Shinto Shrine located within a large forested ground that contains over 120,000 trees collected from around Japan. The Shrine is dedicated to spirits of Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken, who are venerated as deities. Emperor Meiji’s reign continued from 1867 to 1912 and during that period Japan transformed into a dominant industrialised nation. All visitors to the Shrine perform a special cleaning ritual that involves washing of hands and mouth with fresh water especially arranged at the entrance to the shrine.

Senso-Ji is the oldest Buddhist temple in Tokyo, which was first built in around 628 AD. Huge crowds visit the site daily.  A large shopping precinct is located in front of the temple, where various items of interest are sold to tourists and pilgrims. A five-storey pagoda is also located near the temple.

Tokyo Sky Tree is the world’s tallest freestanding tower, 634m high. A huge multistorey shopping centre is located in the Sky Tree complex. The Sky Tree has two observation decks at 350m and 450m, which are open to the public. The Sky Tree is clearly visible from the Senso-Ji temple.

Shibuya Crossing, located near Shibuya Metro Station, demonstrates the hectic movement of people across the city. During a single traffic light change, over 13,000 people have been recorded to cross the road at this crossing.

Imperial Palace and Imperial Palace East Garden are other tourist attractions. The Palace and Garden are surrounded by a wide moat filled with water. Entry to them is through special security checks. Entry to the Palace needs to be arranged in advance, whilst the East Garden can be visited anytime during its opening hours.

Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building is a high-rise building. It has an observation deck on the 45th floor. From the deck, one has a 360-degree view of Tokyo and on a clear day, Mount Fuji is visible from there. Access to the deck is free. A large park with monuments and waterfalls is located near this building

From Tokyo we travelled to Fujikawaguchiko, which is one of the towns at the foothills of Mount Fuji. Mount Fuji is considered a well-known Symbol of Japan. It is located 160km or around 2 hours by road from Tokyo. It is a sacred site in Shinto religion and many local pilgrims as well as local and international tourists visit the mountain, to worship and admire its elegance and grandeur. During winter, tracks to climb the Mount Fuji summit are closed. A view of Mount Fuji is considered an essential component of a trip to Japan.

Fujikawaguchiko is also a base for visiting Fuji Five Lakes. Tourist buses run various loops to these lakes from Fujikawaguchiko station.  Clear views of Mount Fuji were visible from various locations in the area including from our hotel room. Mount Fuji can be visited as a day trip from Tokyo.

Japan is well known for Shinkansen or Bullet Trains. Bullet trains are fast trains that run over separate tracks that connect major towns and cities. On major routes like Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka and Hiroshima, a number of bullet trains run every hour.

From Fujikawaguchiko, we travelled by bus to Mishima station, which is en route of Shinkansen connecting Tokyo to Kyoto. It takes about an hour from Mishima to Kyoto by Shinkansen.

Kyoto became the capital of Japan in 794AD and remained so until 1869AD when the Emperor’s residence moved to Tokyo. Kyoto is famous for its numerous classical Buddhist temples, as well as gardens, imperial palaces, Shinto shrines and traditional wooden houses. UNESCO has listed many of the ancient temples and shrines as World Heritage Sites.

Kinkaku-Ji temple, also know as golden temple, and Ginkaku-Ji temple or Silver temple are popular Buddhist temples. Kinkaku-Ji temple has its top two stories covered with gold leaf. In addition, there are many other temples spread across Kyoto.

Fushimi Inari Taisha is the most important Shinto Shrine dedicated to Inari, the Shinto god of rice. Foxes are thought to be messengers of Inari. Their statues can be seen across the shrine ground. In the Inari complex, hundreds of red coloured Toriis are built along a path leading to a mountain peak. Fruits, flowers, grains and wines are offered to Shinto deities.

Nara, a town close to Kyoto, was the capital of Japan before Kyoto. It is famous for Buddhist temples, Shinto shrines and Nara Park. It can be visited from Kyoto as a day trip. Regular trains connect Kyoto to Nara. Major tourist sites are within walking distance from the railway station.  

Todai-ji is a renowned Buddhist temple complex located in Nara Park. It was originally founded in 738AD and opened in 752AD. Its Great Buddha Hall, also known as Daibutsuden, houses the world’s largest Bronze statue of the Great Buddha, known in Japanese as Daibutsu.  Fire and rebels had destroyed the original structure a number of times in the past. The current building was completed in 1709AD and is one of the largest wooden buildings in the world. The temple’s museum displays historic items and statues of ancient Indian deities such as Suryaprabha, Chandraprabha, Sahastrabhuj, Shakyamuni and Dhritrastra. It also shows films about the history of the temple. A replica of the Emblem of India the Lion Capital and a pillar symbolising the Ashok’s Pillar of Sarnath are installed in the temple complex.  

Kofuki-Ji is another Buddhist temple, and Kasuga Taisha is a Shinto shrine in Nara Park. Nara Park is famous for freely roaming deer. Deers are considered sacred and believed to be messengers of deities according to Shinto tradition. They are found in temple areas and are a huge attraction for visitors.

From Kyoto, we travelled to Hiroshima. It is also called the City of Water. Six rivers flow through the city. The first atom bomb was dropped on Hiroshima on Monday, 6 August 1945, killing thousands of people instantaneously. Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum displays scenes of devastation caused by the atomic attack. In the Peace Memorial Park, Children’s Peace Monument, Flame of Peace, Cenotaph and other monuments remind visitors of the horrors caused by the atomic bomb.

Miyajima is a small island famous for its floating Torii. In a day trip from Hiroshima, we visited the island, which is about 30 minutes by train and then by ferry to the Island. The torii/gate looks like it is floating during the high sea. Itsukushima-jinja is a Shinto Shrine constructed on pillars over the seawater, close to the floating torii. It comprises a number of buildings.

On the way to the hills from the seashore, there is a huge Buddhist temple named Daisho-in. It is accessed by a steep climb over a series of steps. The temple contains numerous large and small statues of Buddha and Bodhisattvas.

From Hiroshima we travelled to Osaka, the third largest city in Japan. It is a port city and commercial centre. In addition to museums and shopping arcades, Osaka Castle is the main historical tourist attraction. Kansai International Airport is the nearest international airport in Osaka. It is located on an island and is connected by road to Osaka via a bridge. Osaka was our last destination in Japan, and from there, we returned home to Brisbane.

There are many things we witnessed or experienced in Japan that seem unique to the Japanese people and their culture. Cleanliness of private and public spaces is notable. People are polite and willing to help when asked. The Japanese tend to converse quietly in public places such as while travelling on trains and buses. The practice of bargaining or haggling is discouraged in shops. There is no need to provide tips for services. The influence of Indian culture in Japanese spiritual practices can be observed through Buddhism and the Sanskrit origin of many Japanese words.

Angkor Wat – The Sacred Abode of Lord Vishnu

Angkor Wat is the principal temple of Angkorian region, located in Northwest Cambodia. Cambodia is a Southeast Asian country with capital Phnom Penh. Cambodia’s population is estimated at 16.5 million. Around ninety-seven per cent of its population follows Theravad Buddhism, which is the official religion of the country. The remaining population follows Christianity, Islam, tribal traditions and other religions.

Like in several other Southeast Asian countries, the primary religion in ancient Cambodia was Hinduism. Both Shaivism and Vaishnavism, based on Shiva and Vishnu worship traditions respectively, had been practiced in Cambodia. Later, Mahayan and Theravad Buddhism became the dominant state religion. Cambodians adopted the Indian religions on their merits. The acceptance of Indian religions by Cambodians demonstrates the close relationship between India and Cambodia in the past.

Reliable information detailing the ancient relationship between the two countries is limited. According to a popular legend prevalent in Cambodia, it originated as a country from the union of an intelligent Hindu youth from India named Kaundinya and a daughter of the serpent king, who ruled over the water that submerged the land of Cambodia in ancient times.

Kaundinya sailed over the sea close to the region of Cambodia.  Princess Nagi, the daughter of the serpent king of the watery realm, paddled over the water towards him. He saw the princess and shot a magic arrow in her direction, which caused her to fall in love with him. The serpent king arranged the wedding of his daughter with the youth, and removed the water to make the land available for them to live, prosper and procreate. The land area was named Kambuj, which later became Kampuchia and then Cambodia. Their children and descendants populated the land of Cambodia.

Our recent trip to Cambodia started from Siem Reap, which is a provincial capital with an international airport. It is the nearest town to Angkor Wat and is the centre for sightseeing tours to various historical temples and monuments in the region. Angkor National Museum, Cambodian Circus, Wat Bo and other Buddhist Monasteries, and the night market in and around Pub Street are major attractions in Siem Reap. Vendors selling fried scorpions, snakes and worms can be seen in Pub Street. 

The word Angkor is a Khmer pronunciation of the Sanskrit word “Nagar” which means capital city. The term Khmer is used for the Cambodian language as well as for the Cambodian people. Wat also has its root in Sanskrit and Pali languages and is translated as temple or Buddhist monastery.

As there are many ancient monuments in the region, tours in the region are generally spread over many days. Visitors have the choice to buy one day, three day and seven day entry tickets priced at 37/62/72USD respectively. In two days, a tourist can visit most of the major attractions. The US Dollar is almost universally accepted currency for transactions in Cambodia.

Tour operators have arranged their sightseeing itineraries as small tour circuit and grand tour circuits. The small tour circuit includes Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom with Bayon in the middle, Ta Keo, Ta Prohm and Banteay Kdei temples and monuments. The grand tour circuits include the above-mentioned sites plus Preah Khan, Neak Poan, Ta Som, East Mebon and Pre Rup temples. Tour operators and guides are mostly willing to accommodate requests to visit other sites. Each of the above listed sights is a fascinating monument that displays the creativity of ancient Cambodians.

The main attraction in the Angkorian region is the Angkor Wat temple. The original name of Angkor Wat was “Barom Visnulok” in Khmer, which means the sacred abode of lord Vishnu. The temple structure denotes mount Meru, the mythological mountain where gods reside.

The Hindu king Suryavarman II built the Angkor Wat temple during his reign from 1112 to approximately 1150 AD. Prior to him, other kings had established their capital cities near the same area and had built numerous grand temples and palaces. Ruins of some of them are included in small and grand tour circuits. The majority of the ancient temples were dedicated to lord Shiva. Angkor Wat was dedicated to lord Vishnu.

The Angkor Wat temple complex is one of the largest religious buildings in the world and covers an area of 163 hectares. The whole building complex is surrounded by a moat filled with water. The building is designed in ascending order from west to east with a number of levels, galleries and Gopuram towers.  The central Gopuram tower is 65m high. Walls of the building are filled with stone carvings based on stories from Hindu Scriptures such as the Ramayan, the Mahabharat, and Purans. Themes depicting deities and demons churning the milky ocean, Apsaras, nymphs dancing in various poses, Vishnu’s incarnations, Krishna’s childhood pastimes, bird Garuda, snake Vasuki, elephant Aerawat, Indra and other guardians of directions and regions, and other religious stories are elaborately carved on building walls and towers.

The next famed king of Angkor was Jayavarman VII who ruled from 1181 to 1220AD. He was also a great builder and built palaces, temples and irrigation infrastructure. He was a follower of Mahayan Buddhism. He modified and added structures to Angkor Wat with Buddhist themes.

Jayavarman VIII, a Hindu king who reigned between 1243 to 1295AD, attempted to restore and improve Angkor Wat and other old Hindu temples. With the arrival and broad acceptance of Theravad Buddhism in fourteenth century Cambodia, further alterations and additions were made to Angkor Wat. The additions were mostly made of wooden structure, which did not survive for long. Angkor Wat was a prominent temple complex until the end of sixteenth century. During the years after its glorious heydays, Angkor Wat remained a pilgrimage site for observant Buddhists.

Angkor Thom was the largest capital city of the ancient Khmer kingdom, with palaces, temples and other public buildings. A gated wall surrounded the whole complex. Bayon temple, presumably dedicated to the four-faced lord Brahma, in the middle of Angkor Thom, has a number of Gopuram towers with faces carved in stones. It is an incredible attraction in Angkor Thom.

Ta Keo was built as a Shiva temple. Steps leading to its upper sections are so steep that one has to crawl on them to climb up or down. A similar steep steps construction is found in many other temples. Ta Prohm and Banteay Kdei were also walled cities. The Indian Archaeological Department is assisting Cambodia in restoring Ta Prohm.

Sites and monuments included in the grand tour circuits are similarly impressive. In addition there are many other temples, monuments and sites of tourist interest. Notably among them are floating villages on water that are exciting attractions in the region.

Numerous Shiva Lingas and bases for them alone can be seen in many old temples.  Some temples display Buddha Statues where visitors offer prayers. One can see overgrown trees encompassing ancient statues and building walls in a number of temple complexes.

During the French colonial rule over Cambodia, Henri Mouhout, a French explorer passed through the Angkor Wat area and wrote a travel diary, which was published in 1863. His description of the temples in the region attracted many adventurers from Europe to explore this area further. The author is recognised as the finder of Angkor Wat hidden in the Jungle. This claim of the French discovering Angkor Wat in the nineteenth century is not universally accepted. Other European travellers had also described it earlier in their travel diaries.

The French colonial government undertook and funded restoration works to recondition Angkor Wat and other temples during its rule. The work continued after Cambodia won independence in 1953, and continues to date. Many countries including India are currently participating in restoration works of ancient temples and associated structures.

Angkor Wat has played a significant role in Hinduism and Buddhism. Considering its important role in the history of Cambodia, United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO) declared it as a World Heritage Site in 1992.

Angkor Wat is the national symbol of Cambodia and its Gopuram towers are depicted on the national flag.

During our journey from Siem Reap to capital Phnom Penh by road, we noticed a flat landscape dotted with villages and towns that reminded us of the landscape of India. It is common to see a Buddhist temple/stupa in front of houses and businesses.

Phnom Penh, Cambodia’s capital city is large and bustling with a population of over 2 million people. The Royal Palace, Silver Pagoda, Wat Phnom, Cambodia – Vietnam Friendship Park and Monument, Independence Monument, Norodom Sihanouk Statue, Genocide Museum and Killing Fields are major tourist attractions.

The Silver Pagoda is a beautiful Buddhist temple in the Royal Palace complex in Phnom Penh.  Murals based on stories from the Ramayan are drawn on walls enclosing the Silver Pagoda. The Genocide Museum and Killing Fields relate to the tragic events during the reign of Pol Pot regime from 1975 to 1979. The river Tonle Sap meets the mighty river Mekong near Phnom Penh.  Riverside areas are very scenic and well developed to cater for recreational activities.

Cambodians are friendly people and we noted their natural respect towards Indians. Ongoing cooperation in restoring ancient monuments, tourism and cultural exchange should help strengthen our ancient historic bonds.

Bali – The Island of Temples

Bali is an island located in the east of Java and west of Lombok islands of Indonesia. It is a province of Indonesia. Its capital city is Denpasar, where the Island’s airport is located. Bali covers an area of 5,780 km2 and its population in 2014 was 4.225 million. Over 83.5% of its population follow Hinduism. Other religions followed in Bali are Buddhism, Islam and Christianity.

The tourism industry contributes significantly to Bali’s economy. Tourism infrastructures such as hotels, restaurants, beaches, historical monuments and temples, cultural events, and transport facilities are well developed and cater for all types of visitors. Citizens of many countries, including Australia, can obtain their visa or an exemption, by presenting their passport at the airport.

Being an island, Bali has many beaches. Some of the popular among them are Kuta, Seminyak, Legian and Batu Balong beaches on the southwest side of the island, and Sanur and Pandawa beaches on the southeast side.

One of the most captivating tourist attractions in Bali is the abundance of Hindu temples. Over ten thousand temples are spread all across Bali. Almost every Hindu family has a temple in their home. Depending upon the wealth and status of the family, it may be a single room in the house or a large separate temple in the house complex.  There are public temples in almost all localities, where the community’s religious celebrations are held. In addition, there are large temple complexes with more than one temple. They are also popular tourist attractions, as well as sacred sites where local worshippers perform rituals. Temples have intricate carvings on their entry gates and are typically multi-level towers, also known as pagodas. A priest known as Pandit with similar Balinese pronunciation leads the rituals. Tourists are not allowed entry into the area where local religious ceremonies are performed, but they can observe the religious proceedings from a distance.

Statues of Ganesh and other Hindu deities can be seen at the entrance of houses and businesses. A number of worshipping items such as flowers, leaves and fruits presented on leaf- plates can be seen in front of a house or business as offering to deities. Streets and roads named after Hindu deities and religious characters can be seen around the Island.

The Trimurti of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva are the main deities in Balinese Hinduism. In addition, Ganesh, Laxmi, Saraswati, Parvati and Durga are equally venerated. Statues of the characters of the Ramayan and the Mahabharat can be seen at roundabouts and road intersections throughout Denpasar and other towns. Cultural programs based on stories from the Ramayan and the Mahabharat are performed at many temples and cultural centres. Puppet shows describing stories from the Ramayan are also popular.

Om Swasti Astu, the Sanskrit blessing phase, is the welcome greeting in Balinese. Indonesian language Bahasa with Latin alphabet is used in Bali; however, the old Balinese script based on the Sanskrit language can be seen inscribed on temple walls and other structures. English is the language of communication with tourists.

It is believed that Hinduism became a practicing religion in Southeast Asia including Bali almost two millennia ago. Later, Buddhism replaced it in some countries. When Islam became dominant in the Indonesian archipelago, then Majapahit, the last Hindu king of Java, took shelter in Bali, which was a strong Hindu state.

Areas around Denpasar, and Kuta, Seminyak and Sanur beaches are centres of tourist activities. Tourists interested in understanding and familiarising themselves with Balinese art, culture and way of life prefer to stay in Ubud and surrounding areas, almost an hour’s drive north from Denpasar airport.

On the way to Ubud from the airport, one can see rows of shops and galleries displaying objects such as deities, demons, animals and articles of art carved out of wood. Similar objects made of stones and paintings showing natural beauties, deities and demons and animals can also be observed along the road. In some galleries, one can see artist carving beautiful figures out of wood.

Ubud is surrounded by fertile paddy fields. They border restaurants and hotels. Some isolated villas standing alone can be seen in the field, which are preferred by tourists interested in living surrounded by nature.

There are many sites of attraction that a tourist can choose to visit in Bali. Some of the sites that we visited during our recent trip include Saraswati temple, Ubud Palace and museum, all of which are major attractions in the Ubud central area. Ubud market is close to the Palace.

Wanar Wana or sacred monkey forest is a monkey sanctuary bordering the central area in Ubud. A large number of monkeys can be seen in the forest. They are fed and taken care of by the forest authority. Three temples, dedicated to Shiva family, Prajapati and Ganga, are located in the monkey forest.

Goa Gajah or Elephant Cave is a cave temple located south of Ubud. Entrance to the cave is through the cavernous mouth of a monster. Inside the cave are symbols of Shiva and Parvati on one end, and a statue of Ganesh on the other. In front of the cave are deep ponds. Outside the cave, a deep valley, a waterfall and a Shiva temple are other attractions.

Batubulan is a town located south of Ubud. The Barong Dance Show displaying the victory of good over evil is a one-hour drama performed in an undercover theatre in Batubulan every day, starting at 9:30 am. The main characters of the drama are Kunti and Sahadeo from the Mahabharata. Lord Shiva, a monkey and demons also play roles.

Tirtha Empul, a holy spring north of Ubud, is believed to have magical power to cure illness. Tourists, local as well as foreigners, line up to take a dip in the holy water. Water from the spring is used in religious ceremonies all over Bali. A large temple is located in the complex where worshippers perform religious rituals.

In the central mountains area of Bali, Gunung Batur is one of the two volcanic craters. Gunung Batur can be seen from a hill top restaurant at Chintamani on the other side of the valley that separates the crater hill and Chintamani. Terraced paddy fields can be seen along the way to Chintamani as well as in areas around Ubud.

Ulun Danu Bratan temple, also in the central mountains area, is located on the banks of the Danau Bratan Lake. The temple complex is spread over a large area. The mountains and lake surrounding it are enchantingly beautiful. The Bali Botanical Garden is on the way to Bratan temple from Ubud.

Taman Ayun and Tanah Lot are large temples in western Bali. Taman Ayun is surrounded by a moat with water flowing from a river.  Tanah Lot, a large temple complex famous for sunset viewing, is on the bank of Bali Sea. A number of temples constitute the Tanah Lot complex. One temple is in the sea, which can be accessed during low tide by crossing the water on foot. Fresh water drips from the hill where the temple is located.  This water is considered sacred. All tourists who venture to cross the water are welcomed by priests on the island temple and blessed with sacred water. Indian tourists chanting Ganapti Bappa Morya and Har Har Mahadev were present in large numbers during our visit to the temple.

Luhur Ulu Watu is a popular temple located on a steep cliff facing the sea in the southwest tip of South Bali. It contains a forested area where a large number of monkeys reside. In the forest, there is a large statue of Ravan, the kidnapper of Devi Sita. According to local legends, monkeys, who are considered soldiers of lord Ram, surround the statue and continue to harass him even in the present day, for his shameful act.

An impressive monument known as Garuda Wisnu Kanchana (GWK), placed in a park, is a major attraction in South Bali. The park is spread over sixty hectares and is located at an altitude of 263 meters above sea level. The monument displaying Vishnu and his mount Garuda is the tallest statue in Indonesia.

Bajrasandhi is a well-known monument in Denpasar. It celebrates the Balinese struggle for independence and eventual victory over colonial powers. Parks surround the monument and a museum displays historical and cultural items. Shree Jagannath temple, near another park in Denpasar, is also a popular attraction.

Besakih temple and traditional Balinese village are located in the northeast region of the Island. Besakih temple is also known as Mother temple. Besakih is the Balinese pronunciation of Vasuki, the mythological serpent in Hinduism. The complex comprises a number of temples, which are located on the hills. From the temple complex, one can see a panoramic view of surrounding areas.

The traditional Balinese village consists of well-organised community dwellings. Houses are built in a row with access from Main Street to each house. Each house has a shop inside near the entrance that sells locally produced goods.

One has to wear Sarong to enter sacred sites. Sarongs are available for use at the entry gates. Entry fees apply to visit most temples and tourist sites.

Balinese Hindus cremate their dead. They lead an elaborate procession through the town or village during the cremation, followed by religious rituals. Prayer and religious rituals are also held to mark the birth of a baby and wedding ceremonies.

Rice, which requires a lot of water to grow, is the main crop, and a variety of them are grown in Bali. Fruits, herbs and spices are also grown in Bali.  Rice is the staple food of the Balinese.

Luwah coffee, which is produced from seeds eaten by Luwah, a mongoose like animal and excreted in whole, is a popular export item in Bali. The Luwah coffee factory that we visited in the central mountains region demonstrate the process of coffee making as well as production of tea and other spices and herbs, from cultivation to the final product.

Massage parlours and Balinese cooking classes are popular among tourists. During the cooking class, students are led to a market to identify items used in the cooking. At the school, instructors help them to cook meals, which they enjoy at the end of the class.

Puppet show art is popular in Bali and one can see how these puppets are made of skin or timber in local workshops.

During our trip to Bali, the Hindu religious traditions followed in Bali, and impressive temple complexes throughout the island, were amongst the most fascinating attractions for us. They reminded us of the important influence of the ancient Indian civilisation in Southeast Asian countries, the effects of which remain strong and visible even today.

Mathura and Vrindavan – Places Related to Krishna’s Childhood

Recently my wife Sudha and I visited Mathura and Vrindavan, two historical places closely related to Krishna’s childhood activities.  The two towns are 11km apart, located on the bank of River Yamuna. The Delhi Agra Highway connects them both to Delhi and other major towns and cities. While travelling from Delhi, one has to pass through three road-toll booths during around 3.5-hour trip.

Lord Krishna was born in a prison cell in Mathura. Kansa, the king of Mathura, had imprisoned his parents, father Vasudev and mother Devaki. Kansa had usurped power from his own father Ugrasen who ruled his kingdom from the capital Mathura. Krishna’s parents were imprisoned to evade the forecast that their eighth son would kill Kansa.

Krishna was taken to Gokul by his father immediately after his birth and transferred to the care of Nanda Maharaj. There, Krishna was brought up by mother Yashoda and Nanda Maharaj. Later Nanda Maharaj along with Krishna, relatives and associates moved to Vrindavan to avoid ongoing harassment by Kansa.  Krishna performed childhood activities in and around Vrindavan, which are recorded in detail by poets, devotees and religious scholars.

Other important sites in this region, which is also known as Brajabhumi, are Nandgaon where Nanda Maharaj used to live, and Barasana where Radha, the well-known Gopi lover of Krishna, was born. Mathura and Vrindavan are the largest and most well known towns in Brajabhumi. Mathura is a district town with district head quarter and industrial complexes including an oil refinery. Vrindavan is the major pilgrimage centre, especially for the followers of Krishna-based Vaishnava tradition of Hinduism.

The earliest reference to Mathura is found in the Ramayana. During the rule of Lord Ram, his brother Shatrughna was sent to quell the rebellion headed by Lavanasur in this region.  Shatrughna established a centre named Madhuvan to administer the region. Later it was known as Madhupura and then as Mathura.

Mathura became the capital of the Surasen kingdom; the same to which king Ugrasen and Kansa belonged. It remained a major political and religious centre. The Greek traveller Megasthenes and Chinese traveller Faxian mentioned Mathura in their writings. During Faxian’s visit, Mathura was a major Buddhist centre.

Mathura is one of the seven sacred cities in India, the others being Ayodhya, Haridwar, Varanasi, Kanchi, Ujjain and Dwarka. A large number of temples are spread all over Mathura, including Krishna Janmabhumi temple, Dwarkadhish temple and Keshav Deo temple.

Among all the temples, the Krishna Janmabhumi temple is the oldest and has a long history of destruction and reconstruction.  The original temple was built by the great grandson of Krishna at the site of Krishna’s prison birthplace. During the dominance of Buddhism in India, the temple went into disrepair. After decline of Buddhism, king Chandragupta II restored the temple to its previous glory.

The temple was destroyed and rebuilt many times during the Islamic rule over India. The latest destruction of the temple was done by the order of Aurangajeb. The temple was demolished in 1670 AD and a mosque was built at its site. During the British rule, a part of the site was auctioned by the East India Company, and was bought by the king of Varanasi. The construction of the modern temple on the auctioned site, located beside the mosque, was completed in 1965.

Thorough security checks are conducted on every tourist entering the Krishna Janmabhumi temple complex. All belongings including cameras, phones and bags are to be deposited at the entry gate. It remains a sensitive temple, like Shree Ram Janmabhumi temple complex in Ayodhya and the partly demolished Vishwanath temple currently used as a mosque in Varanasi.

Mathura is also famous for it museum, the Government Museum. It is a leading museum that houses ancient sculptures, pottery, paintings and coins belonging to between 3rd century BC to 12th century AD recovered from the region.

Vrindavan is a small town with a population of around 63,000 (2011).  Vrinda means Tulsi or basil plant, and Van mean grove. The name of the place indicates that its area may have been full of basil plants in ancient times.

Lord Krishna spent his childhood in and around Vrindavan. The famous Govardhan Mountain and River Yamuna lie in close proximity to the town. Being related to Krishna’s activities, a large number of temples dedicated to Krishna are located in this region, including the Bankey Bihari temple, Radha Damodar temple, ISKCON temple and Prem Mandir. Temples dedicated to other deities, such as Vaishno Devi and Shiva are also available.

Bankey Bihari temple is the holiest and one of the most famous temples dedicated to Krishna. It attracts a large number of devotees. Its access is through narrow lanes. Local guides are helpful in facilitating Darshan, viewing of the deity.

Prem Mandir and ISKCON temples are modern constructions accessible from the Bhaktivedanta Swami Marg. Prem Mandir is built of marble on a 54-acre site.  Kripalu Maharaj, a well known Krishna’s devotee, established this complex.  The ISKCON temple is also a large marble temple located on a sizeable site. The temple complex includes many other structures including a park, residential buildings and other support facilities. From the Bhaktivedanta Swami Marg, one can access Vaishno Devi Mandir. A huge statue of Vaishno Devi on her mount, a lion, can be seen from the road. In addition, there are many other temples built and managed by different sects of Hinduism.

Vrindavan is mentioned in religious texts of antiquity. Vallabhacharya (1479–1531 AD), a Vaishnava philosopher, restored the status of Vrindavan as a major pilgrimage centre. He founded the Krishna centred sect of Vaishnavism. He used to stay there for four months each year. Chaitanya Mahaprabhu, who also preached Krishna based tradition, visited Vrindavan in 1515. With his divine spiritual powers, he was able to locate through his devotees all the important places of Krishna’s childhood in and around Vrindavan. Mira Bai, a famous spiritual poet, spent her last fourteen years of life in a temple in Vrindavan. 

Vrindavan had been an important place for widows who were sent there by family members to spend their time in spirituality. This practice has sometime resulted in their maltreatment.

A lot of monkeys roam around Vrindavan streets. One should be careful with their possessions, especially hats, shaded glasses and mobile phones. Vrindavan has changed from a basil grove to a town like many other places in India due to urbanisation.

Many people visit Vrindavan to get initiated into a religious tradition by a spiritual Guru. Vrindavan is now a major international tourist destination thanks to ISKCON and other Krishna centred traditions. 

Borobudur and Prambanan Temples

In March 2023, my wife and I travelled to Jakarta and Yogyakarta. Both cities are located on Java, the most populated island of Indonesia. Indonesia is a country, which consists of over seventeen thousand islands, including Sumatra, Java, Bali, Kalimanthan and others. The country is located in Southeast Asia and Oceania between the Indian and Pacific oceans. The name Indonesia is derived from the Greek words Indos and nesos, which mean Indian Islands.

India has been closely related to Indonesian islands through trade and cultural exchanges since ancient times. Long ago, Indian traders established their settlements on various islands. Subsequently Hindu and Buddhist kingdoms were founded on Indonesian archipelagos. Many cities, towns and objects still retain their Sanskrit names.

Buddhist kingdoms of Srivijaya in Sumatra and Shailendra in Java, and Hindu kingdoms of Sanjay and Majapahit in Java reigned over a large part of territories of modern Indonesia. Those kingdoms flourished over many centuries and contributed to the development of a unique culture and traditions that were aligned with Indian beliefs and institutions. Temples and monasteries, which they built, still dominate the landscape of Indonesian islands, including Bali and Java.

Bali is predominantly a Hindu majority Island. During our previous trip to Indonesia, we visited Bali and were impressed by the grandeur of Hindu monuments, temples and religious rituals practiced by the local population. This time we decided to visit Yogyakarta, which is located in central Java. The largest Buddhist temple Borobudur and one of the largest Hindu temple complexes, Prambanan, are both located near Yogyakarta. Merapi Mount with active volcanic activities is about an hour’s drive from Borobudur and Prambanan.

Australian tourists generally enter Indonesia at Denpasar in Bali or Jakarta in Java if travelling by air. Yogyakarta is well connected with both locations by regular flights. We chose Jakarta for our entry to Indonesia.

Jakarta is the national capital of Indonesia, and is located in the northwest of the Java Island. It is the largest city in Southeast Asia with population estimated to be over eleven million in 2023. Jakarta is the Javanese pronunciation of Sanskrit word ‘Jay Karta’, which means “the achiever of victory”. Being the capital city, Jakarta is the political, economic and cultural centre of Indonesia. During the Dutch colonial era it was called Batavia.

We stayed in Jakarta for a few days and visited some of the local tourist attractions. Notable among them were the Merdeka Square, Monumen Nasional, Museum Nasional, Presidential Palace, Masjid Istiqlal, Cathedral church and a monument of Arjun on a chariot depicting a scene from the Mahabharat. All these attractions are in close proximity to the Merdeka Square.

Merdeka Square is a large square located in central Jakarta. Merdeka is the Indonesian word for freedom or independence. In September 1945, Sukarno, the Indonesian independence leader, declared independence from colonial rule at a grand meeting held in the square. The square measures around one-square kilometre in area and is one of the largest such areas in the world. It is well maintained, with coverings of flowers and greenery. Trees enclose some outer sections of the square. A number of statues and monuments are installed in its different sections. The square is a popular destination for local residents for sports and recreational activities, especially on weekends.

The National Monument, also called Monas (Monumen Nasional), is located in the centre of the square. It is a 132m-high tower surrounded by spacious paved areas near its ground floor, and also on a higher level. Below the monument is an underground museum that displays exhibits highlighting events of Indonesian history from the ancient period to modern age. Hindu and Buddhist periods are munificently displayed in the museum. The monument is reached through an underground tunnel from the ticketing area. Visitors are allowed access to the top of the tower by a lift. Tourists crowd the area, and even during a lean period, one has to wait for hours to obtain access to the top floor of the monument.

The monument hosts national events such as military parades as well as civil demonstrations. Surrounding the Monument is a park with a musical fountain and a deer enclosure, where they roam freely.

Masjid Istiqlal is the largest mosque in Southeast Asia. Its dome is 45m across and the minaret tops 90m high. Directly opposite the mosque is a huge cathedral church.

The Presidential palace, National Museum and many government buildings are located around the Merdeka Square. Not far from the Museum, Arjun’s monument is a reminder of the ancient Indian connection of the region.

The National Museum is full of displays depicting Hindu gods and goddesses, kings and queens, Buddha and many stone pillars with Sanskrit inscriptions. At the entrance of the museum, there is large forecourt, which is full of objects of Hindu and Buddhist origin, found in different regions of the Indonesian archipelagos.

From Jakarta, we travelled to Yogyakarta. It is around an hour’s flight from Jakarta.

Yogyakarta is the capital of Special Region of Yogyakarta in central Java. Yogyakarta is named after the Indian city Ayodhya, the birthplace of Shree Ram, the main protagonist of the Ramayan. Its English translation is a “city fit to prosper”. The major attractions in the city are the Sultan’s Palace, known as Kraton, Taman Sari (also a palace), fort Benteng Vredeburg and a number of museums.

The region was previously known as Bhumi Mataram, the Javanese word derived from Sanskrit for “Mother Earth”. King Sanjay was the founder and the first king of the Mataram kingdom. Contemporary to Sanjay was another king named Shailendra, who ruled the adjoining region. The Sanjay dynasty kings were Shaivite Hindus and Shailendra kings were followers of Mahayan Buddhism. These two dynasties were great builders.

Major tourist attractions outside the city such as Borobudur, Prambanan and other Buddhist and Hindu temples were built during their time. An adventure tourist attraction, the Merapi mount with active volcanic activity, is also located in this region.

Borobudur is translated as ‘Buddha Vihar’ or ‘Buddha on Hills’ or Supreme Buddha. “Boro” means Vihar as well as hills and supreme, and “Budur” means Buddha. It is the largest Buddhist temple in the world. It is a UNESCO listed World Heritage Site. Borobudur is located 42 km from Yogyakarta. Mountains and hills surround it. It was built between the end of the 7th century and the beginning of the 8th century. It has the form of a Stupa, which contains sacred objects as a symbol of respect for Buddha. Shailendra dynasty kings who ruled over the area from the end of the 7th century to the 9th century built this grand temple.

The base of the temple is 123m x123m square and its original height was 42 meters. The height has reduced due to damage from lightening strikes and earthquakes.  The temple consists of nine stacked platforms, of which six are square and three circular. A central dome tops it. It is decorated with 2,672 relief panels and originally there were 504 Buddha statues. Seventy-two Buddha statues, each seated inside a perforated stupa surround the central dome. The relief panels depict the life story of Buddha from birth to his Nirvan. The design of the temple conforms to the style of Mahayan Buddhism.

All visitors must wear specially designed slippers made of leaves to ascend the temple. The access road to the temple passes through a huge park lined with trees and flower gardens. Established Ashok and Peepal trees are grown along the access route. Their original saplings were brought from India.

Borobudur lay hidden under layers of volcanic ash and jungle growth for centuries. It is believed that the temple was deserted when the population converted to Islam in the 15th century.  It was rediscovered and unearthed in 1835. Subsequently through many restoration works, the temple has attained its current form. It attracts a large number of tourists from all over the world.

A number of other Buddhist temples including the Pawan and Mendut temples are located in the vicinity of Borobudur.

Merapi Mount is an active volcanic site, which last erupted on 11 March 2023. The mount can be seen from the Borobudur temple on a clear day. One can see smoke emitting from the mount cone. The word Merapi is derived from Meru, the legendary mountain, which is believed to be located on the centre of the earth. Tour operators arrange tours up to the base of the mountain. A museum located at the base displays scenes relating to the mount, terrain and volcanic eruptions.

Prambanan is the Javanese pronunciation of Sanskrit Parabrahma, the supreme God. The term Prambanan is used for the Hindu temple complex, which consists of around two hundred forty temples. It is a UNESCO listed World Heritage Site. The complex is arranged in three rectangular courtyards. Sixteen temples were originally built in the central courtyard. The remaining temples were housed in the second courtyard, which surrounded the central area. The third courtyard, surrounding the second, was a green space with an external wall.

Prambanan ruins – East Java (Indonesia)see more photo of Indonesia …

Sanjay dynasty kings built this temple complex. The first temple was built around 850 AD. According to an inscription found in the region, the Shiva temple was inaugurated on 12 November 856. It was built to honour Lord Shiva, and its original name was Shivalay, the house of Shiva. The whole complex was completed over many years.

The temples were abandoned in the middle of the tenth century. A devastating eruption of the Mount Merapi volcano or a political power struggle is assumed to be the reason for the neglect. The temples collapsed during a major earthquake in the 16th century.

In the eighteen-century, the ruins attracted the attention of western archaeologists who prepared reports on them. The government of the time took a keen interest in the findings. Subsequently, restoration works started which continue to date.

The main temples in the central courtyard were dedicated to Shiva, Brahma, Vishnu, their mounts and some other still unidentified deities. They are the main attractions of the site and are identified as Prambanan temple. It is the largest Hindu temple complex of ancient Java.

The Shiva temple is the largest building located in the centre. It is 47m high and its base measures 34m x 34m. Its Garbh-Grih is located at elevation and is accessible through steep stone stairs. Large standing statues of Shiva Mahadev, Mahaguru Agastya, Mahishasur Mardini and a sitting statue of Ganesh are located in separate rooms in four directions of the temple at the Garbh-Grih level. They are accessible through their own distinct stairways.

The Brahma temple is located to the south of the Shiva temple. Its’ square base measures 20m x 20m and it is 33m high. It has only one room as Garbh-Grih accommodating the statue of Brahma. It can be reached through a stone stairway.

The Vishnu temple is located to the north of the Shiva temple. It is identical in layout and structure to the Brahma temple, with a statue of Vishnu in the Garbh-Grih. Many visitors can be seen in the mode of supplication to the divine statues.

Secondary temples that include the Nandi temple, Hansa temple and Garuda temple are dedicated to their respective mounts and face the primary temples. In addition, there are other temples in the central courtyard. Visitors are allowed a Darshan of statues in the main three temples. The Garbh-Grihs of other temples are not open to visitors. None of the temples is used for active worship.

The temple walls are full of relief panels, depicting stories from ancient India. The reliefs on the Shiva and Brahma temples display stories from the Ramayan. The Vishnu temple wall reliefs depict stories relating to Krishna from the Bhagavat Puran. A regular show of the Ramayan ballet or Ramleela episodes is played in an area adjoining the main temples.

The temples in the central court are maintained in good condition and are the main attraction of the site. To view the temples in the outer areas, one has to ride a car-train, which is driven regularly in the complex.

In addition to the main Prambanan temple, there are many other temples in the Yogyakarta region. Notable among them are the Sajiwan temple, Plaosan temple and Kalasan temple. The whole region reminds visitor of its glorious ancient Indian heritage.

Attraction of local inhabitants to their heritage is noticeable in this region. Many shops have their Sanskrit names. Statues of Ganesh, Buddha, Lakshmi, Saraswati, Garuda and other Indian characters can be seen in hotels and shops.

Indian Legacy in Thailand and Laos

My wife and I travelled to Thailand and Laos to familiarise with their culture and history. Both countries are located on the Indochina peninsula of Southeast Asia. The majority of the population in both countries follow Theravad Buddhism, which has close cultural and historical links with India.

Thailand is officially known as the Kingdom of Thailand. The kingdom was known as Siam until 1939. The word Siam is the local pronunciation of the Sanskrit word Shyam, which means dark or brown, and is also one of the alternate names of Lord Krishna. Myanmar, Laos, Cambodia and Malaysia share its landline borders. The country has long coastlines in the gulf of Thailand and Andaman Sea, and shares maritime borders also with India, Indonesia and Vietnam.

The official name of Laos is Lao People’s Democratic Republic. It is a socialist country with a single legal political party. The Party through its Politburo and Central Committee determines government policies for the country. The country is landlocked and shares its borders with Thailand, Myanmar, China, Vietnam and Cambodia.

Thailand – The word Thai means ‘free man’ in the Thai language and Thailand means the land of free people. Thailand has a constitutional monarchy with a democratic form of government. The kings in Thailand are referred to as King Ram with successive numbers. The name Ram was adopted from the name of the Hindu god Ram, an incarnation of Vishnu. The current king is the King Ram X.

The country has a population of around 70 million. More than half of its residents are urban dwellers. Bangkok is the capital and the largest city with a population of over 11 million. It has two airports named Suvarnabhumi airport and Don Mueang airport. We landed at the Suvarnabhumi airport.

The capital city Bangkok is officially known in Thai as Krung Thep Maha Nakhon, which is composed of Pali and Sanskrit language root words. It is translated in brief as ‘the great city of angels’. The full-length translation of the name is ‘the city of angels, great city of immortals, magnificent city of nine gems, seat of the king, city of royal palaces, city of gods incarnate erected by Vishvakarma at Indra’s behest’.

Bangkok finds its origin as a small trading post during the Ayutthaya Kingdom in the 15th century. Because of its strategic location near the mouth of the river, the town gradually increased in importance. After the fall of Ayutthaya in 1767, the newly crowned King Taksin established his capital on the western banks of the River Chao Phraya, which became the base of the Thonburi Kingdom.

In 1782, the King Rama I succeeded Taksin and moved the capital to Rattanakosin on the eastern banks of the River Chao Phraya. His domain became known as the Rattanakosin Kingdom. He started the Chakri dynasty, which is still the ruling royal house of Thailand. The City Pillar, a tourist attraction, was erected on 21 April 1782, which is regarded as the date of foundation of Bangkok as the capital. It eventually grew and became the site of two capital cities, Thonburi and Rattanakosin, which are now central districts of Bangkok.

The city has numerous objects of tourist attractions that include the Grand Palace, Buddhist temples such as Wat Arun, and Wat Phra Kaew among many others, museums, parks, monuments and large shopping centres. The term Wat denotes a Buddhist temple. The River Chao Phraya is the main waterway in the city, on whose banks many tourist attractions are located.

The Grand Palace is a part of large complex that encompasses Wat Phra Kaew, museums, halls and royal buildings. It is a former royal residence, which is now only used on ceremonial occasions. Visitors are allowed to survey only a section of the Grand Palace grounds. Many buildings serving specific royal purposes have intricate designs with Hindu and Buddhist motifs.

Wat Phra Kaew temple complex is the spiritual core of Thai Buddhism. King Ram I commissioned the temple’s construction in 1783. Since then, successive kings have been involved in adding, restoring and embellishing its buildings during their reigns as a means of gaining religious merit and glorifying their dynasty.

Many important state and royal ceremonies are held within the temple each year, presided by the king in person and attended by government officials. This designates the temple the nation’s preeminent place of worship and a national shrine for the monarchy and the state. Throughout the years, kings have donated sacred and valuable objects to the temple, making it a treasury as well.

The Emerald Buddha is enshrined in the Wat Phra Kaew and hence the temple is commonly known as the Temple of Emerald Buddha. It is considered to be an object of national veneration. The statue of Buddha is carved in the mode of meditation from a block of Jasper gemstone. It is located high up on a tiered base in an altar of wood designed to represent the aerial chariot of a heavenly being. Because of its green colour it is called Emerald Buddha.

Ramakian Murals depicting episodes from the Thai version of the Ramayan are displayed along the Wat Phra Kaew temple complex perimeter, starting from the entrance gate. They are under cover and spread over 2 km on the wall. They are well maintained and easy to understand. Descriptions are provided near the scenes.

Wat Arun is located in the Thonburi district on the western banks of the River Chao Phraya. On this site, there had previously been a temple from at least the late 16th century. After the fall of Ayutthaya, King Taksin came across the shrine at sunrise and interpreted it as an auspicious sign. He took control of the site and established the new capital. He built a royal palace and a temple. The Emerald Buddha, which was brought from Vientiane, the capital of Laos, was housed in the temple.

After the capital and the Emerald Buddha were relocated to the other side of the river in Rattanakosin, King Ram II renamed the temple after the Hindu god Arun also know as Usha or Dawn.

It is believed that King Ram II himself designed the main Buddha image at the temple. He started building the 82 m high central Khmer style tower, which was completed by King Ram III. Slightly lower towers are located on the four sides of the central one. Steep stairs lead to the top of the central tower. Tourists generally climb up to the lower level. The temple looks superb in size, designed with ornate floral mosaics made from broken, multihued porcelain.

Frequent cross-river ferries run over to Wat Arun Pier on the Chao Phraya River. The magnificent towers of the temple present a mesmerising view from the river.

Ayutthaya – From Bangkok we undertook a daytrip to Ayodhya, spelled Ayutthaya in Thai English. The town is located about 90 km north of Bangkok. Most tourists visit the site known as Ayutthaya Historical Park, which is the area of the former capital of Siam, Ayutthaya.

King Uthong founded Ayutthaya in 1350 on an island surrounded by three rivers. He was also known by the name King Ram Thibodhi I. Scholars are divided over his origin. Some consider him of Khmer origin from Cambodia. Others believe him to be from the Chola kingdom in India. Despite his uncertain origin, naming his capital Ayodhya suggests that he must have been a devout follower of the Hindu god Ram.

According to contemporary sources and maps, Ayutthaya was laid out according to systematic and rigid city planning grids, consisting of roads, canals, and moats around all the principal structures. The scheme took maximum advantage of the city’s position in the midst of three rivers. It employed hydraulic systems for water management, which was pioneering technology at the time.

The capital flourished for more than 400 years and was an influential centre of power and commerce in the region. During its heyday, Ayutthaya had magnificent palaces, temples and well maintained public buildings.

The city was attacked and destroyed by the Burmese army in 1767. It was scorched to the ground and its inhabitants were forced to abandon the city. The city was never rebuilt.

The site was added to UNESCO’s World Heritage List as Ayutthaya Historical Park in 1991. The park comprises four major temples known as Wat Phra Ram, Wat Phra Si Sanphet, Wat Mahathat, Wat Ratchaburana, and the Royal Palace and Wiharn Phra Mongkol Bophit. Tour organisers include these famous sights in the itinerary.

Outside the park itself, historical sites are randomly scattered along the west, south and eastern parts of the outer sections. Many of the archaeological finds from the ruins around Ayutthaya are exhibited at Chao Sam Phraya National Museum. By seeing the remains at the site and displays in the museum, one can imagine the status of the kingdom in its glory.

Laos – Laos is the only landlocked country in Southeast Asia. Nearly three-quarters of Laos is covered in mountains and forested hills. The current population of the country is around 7.7 million.

Laos finds its origin in the historical kingdom of Lancang, which held the area of present day Laos from 1353 to 1707. Following the period of internal conflict, Lancang broke up into three separate kingdoms, Luang Phrabang, Vientiane and Chapasak. In 1893, the three kingdoms became a French protectorate and were jointly named Laos. It became an independent country in 1953.

From Bangkok’s Don Mueang airport, we flew to Wattay airport in Vientiane. Vientiane is the capital and largest city of Laos with a population of around one million. The city is located on the banks of Mekong River, the third largest river in Asia. The Mekong River is vital as a transportation route for cargo and passengers, a source of electricity at dams, a water supply system for crops, and a home to fish, an important food in the diet of Laotian people.

Vientiane contains a number of tourist attractions, which we visited during our stay. Important among them are Wat Si Saket, Wat Chanthabuli, Wat Ong Teu Mahavihan, Patuxai, Pha That Luang, and River Side Night Market.

Wats – Wat Si Saket is the city’s oldest surviving temple. In its name, Si is derived from the Sanskrit title of veneration Shree. Saket is an alternate name of Ayodhya.  The temple was built in 1818 in a contemporary style of Buddhist architecture at the time, with surrounding terraces and an ornate five-tiered roof. The temple houses a museum with a large collection of items relating to its history and religion.

Wat Chanthabuli and Wat Ong Teu Mahavihan are other temples located along the River and are good locations for meditation and prayers.

The Patuxai, which is translated as Victory Gate, is a massive concrete arch. It is a reminiscent of the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. The monument commemorates Laos’s resilience and eventual independence, as well as recognising those who lost their lives in the wars for independence.

Its exterior features Buddhist symbols and Hindu deities, with 5 ornate towers built in the traditional Laotian style. The 4 corner towers and 5th central tower that crowns the arch symbolise the 5 Buddhist principles of thoughtful amiability, flexibility, honesty, honour and prosperity. Intricate carvings of lotus leaves, statues of Apsaras, the divine dancers and Nagas, serpents are carved on the Patuxai. The structure has beautiful walls and ceilings with paintings of gods, goddesses and elephants.

Pha That Luang or Great Stupa is a large gold covered Buddhist Stupa. Emperor Ashok of the Indian Mauryan Empire is believed to have sent Buddhist missionaries to the ancient kingdom of the region. They brought a sacred relic believed to be the breastbone of Buddha and enshrined it into the stupa in the 3rd century BC. The structure was rebuilt in the 13th century as a Khmer temple, which later fell into ruin. It was reconstructed in the early 20th century. It is regarded as the most important national monument in Laos as well as a national symbol.

The Vientiane Night Market takes place along the Mekong Riverfront, where one can see rows of stalls selling handicrafts, clothes, and electronics. There is also a children’s playground, a temple, a flower garden and an imposing statue of Chao Anouvong, a national leader, pointing across the Mekong River. Numerous restaurants serve local food along the riverside. There is an amusement park for children. In the night, one can see the lights in Thailand on the opposite side of the river. A long walking path is built along the riverbank.

From Vientiane, we returned to Bangkok and then to Brisbane. In the departure section of the Suvarnabhumi airport, there is a huge scene depicting the churning of the cosmic ocean during the tortoise incarnation of Lord Vishnu. Throughout the trip, we sensed with joy and recognition the influence of ancient India on the religion, language and names of persons and places of the region.

Pitri Paksh Shraddh

The terms Shraddha श्रद्धा and Shraddh श्राद्ध are derived from a common root in Sanskrit. The shraddha means devotion or faith, whereas shraddh refers to a ritual, which is performed with devotion and faith after the death of a person.

In Hinduism, shraddh is a part of the last rite of the dead body known as Antyesthi Sanskar or funeral rite. It is assumed that the shraddh helps the departed soul reach its final destination, which depends upon the Karma, a sum of all actions an individual performs while alive on earth.

Socially, the shraddh signifies an expression of gratitude to the deceased by descendants or relatives. It is a universal human practice, approved in religions and civilisations since ancient times. Its format varies depending on the time, place and status of the deceased.

Mortality – According to the Hindu tradition, an alive human is a combination of physical body and soul. The physical body comprises five basic elements that include earth, water, fire, air, and ether. The soul is the mystical component and non-material essence of a person. It is commonly known as the source of consciousness, Jeev or Pran-vayu. When an individual dies, the soul leaves the body to realise the effects of karma.

Death of living things is a universal and inevitable occurrence and no one is immune to it. It is a painful experience for the loved ones left behind and causes them heartbreak and grief. Philosophical interpretations and platitudes such as death is ‘exchanging an old dress with a new one’, ‘liberation of a soul from its body’, ‘birth and death are a fact of life’, etc. generally do not console the griever.

Stirred by a sense of gratitude, the bereaved commonly pay homage and offer charity in the name of the deceased person. The dharma-shastras recommend elaborate rituals, which include prayers for the peace of the deceased and offering of material goods for use by the disembodied soul. These rituals are to be reasonable within the means of the family, to avoid a further increase in hardship following the death of the family member.

In a traditional rural environment in India and in orthodox Hindu families, when it becomes clear that death of the person is imminent, family members and friends gather near the dying individual. They offer Ganga-water and Tulasi leaf in the person’s mouth. Sacred verses from the Gita, the Ramayan or any other preferred texts relevant to the occasion are recited nearby to generate a peaceful and serene environment.

Once death has occurred, the preparation for cremation starts. Cremation of the dead body is done soon after the death, preferably on the same day. The practice varies among different communities and sects. Usually the body is washed and wrapped in a white cloth if the dead person is a man or a widow. If it is a woman whose husband is still alive, her body is dressed as an adorned married woman. Grieving for the deceased is a natural response however, on the death of an extremely old person, it is generally discouraged.

The dead body is carried on a bier made of bamboos and transported to the cremation ground. It is placed on a specially arranged pile of wood, the legs facing south. South is believed to be the region of Yam, the god of death. He is also known as Dharmaraj, responsible for deciding the next stage for the departed soul.

Sandalwood and clarified butter are generously added to the woodpile to accelerate wood combustion. A priest recites Mantras for the occasion. The eldest son or the person authorised to perform the rite, known as fire-donor, walks around the woodpile with the body in an anti-clockwise direction. He carries a pitcher filled with water, which is allowed to trickle during circumambulation symbolically purifying the pyre. Now a days daughters and female relatives also perform the offering of fire and associated rituals.

Following the circumambulation, the fire donor lights the fire near the dead body’s mouth. Once the pyre is ablaze, the performer and closest relatives circumambulate the burning pyre one or more times. The Kapala-kriya or cracking of the skull is the last stage of combustion. The offering of body to the fire is considered to be a sacrifice. In the process, the physical elements of the body are returned to the nature.

Once the body has completely consumed, the fire is extinguished. The ash along with any bone particles is collected and the site is cleansed with water. The collected ash and bone remains are immersed into a river considered sacred such as the Ganga or any other flowing stream or sea, or scattered on a mountaintop or otherwise disbursed, in accordance with wishes of the dead person or family members. This process is called Ashthi Visarajan and must be completed before the tenth day after death.

The dead body is considered polluted. All those who attend the cremation or are exposed to cremation smoke must take a shower or dip themselves into a body of water as soon as possible, following the cremation.

Where electric crematorium is available, the ritual is performed before submitting the corpses to the furnace in a modified form. The process varies on many factors including the place, sect to which the family adhere and the family’s social condition.

Nine days following the death and in some regions from the date of cremation are observed as a mourning period. During this time, the soul is believed to be floating around in limbo. The Pret Khand section of Garud Puran describes the status of the soul in detail during the grieving phase. Some families engage a priest to recite these sections to soothe their grieving.

The fire-donor lives an austere life during this time. He or she offers a Tarpan of water mixed with sesame seed and other items and lights a Diya, an earthen lamp in the name of the deceased every day until the tenth.

On the tenth day, the purification ceremony is performed.  The main performer and other male family members shave their heads, beard, trim their nails and take a ritual bath. Women also perform a ritual bath. These practices are considered cleansing and vary among different groups, sects and regions. The house is cleaned and prepared for the next stage of activities.

Antyesthi Shraddh – Following the cleansing, the shraddh rituals are performed under the supervision of the presiding priest. The shraddh involves Pind-dan, offering of rice balls; Panch-bali, five propitiatory offerings; Pitr-bali, offering to ancestors; and  tarpans, offering of water along with barley, sesame seeds, rice, milk and flowers to deities, sages and ancestors.

On the tenth day, the pind-dan is performed to the deceased. On the eleventh day pitr-bali is offered to ancestors and panch-bali to five different beings that include the cow, the crow, the dog, the deities and the ant. The tarpans are tendered to deities, sages and ancestors. In the name of ancestors, the presiding priest and guests are offered food and donations.

On the twelfth day, pind-dan and tarpans are offered to the deceased, ancestors, deities and sages. In addition, the materials that may be required in the afterlife of the deceased person are donated to the presiding priest. It is believed that charity offered to the priest will help the deceased maintain a dignified next life. Some sects and social groups have questioned and modified this part of the process.

On completion of the religious ritual, a Bhandara or feast is organised. Food is offered to the priests, guests and the poor to mark the completion of the ceremony.

These rituals grant the deceased a status of ancestral deity. He or she becomes a Pitr or ancestral deity and resides with other ancestors in the southern quarter of the sky and is worshipped together with them by his/her family, especially during religious events.

In some families, the shraddh is repeated at the anniversary of the death, which becomes a remembrance day for the descendants. Others perform it every month for the first year and then yearly. In some communities, this day marks a day when the poor and needy are offered food in memory of the dead.

The dharma-shastras, grihya-sutras and pauranic texts have devoted many chapters on the shraddh. The process described in Purans practically follows the Grihya-sutra and Manu and Yagyavalkya smritis. The Purans describe a number of shraddh and recommend sacred places such as the banks of the River Ganga, Prayagraj, Varanasi, Gaya and other selected sites for their performance.

Gaya shraddh – The Garud Puran highly praises the performance of shraddh at Gaya during the pitri-paksh, the dark fortnight in the Vikram Samvat month of Ashwin (September-October). Stories from the Ramayan and the Mahabharat further enhance the importance of shraddh at Gaya.

It is believed that Lord Ram along with his brother Lakshman and wife Sita performed shraddh in Gaya for the salvation of his father. Karna of the Mahabharat performed shraddh at Gaya, after he was refused food in the heaven on the ground that he had never donated food to a deserving person. He subsequently regained his position in the abode of gods and deities.

The pind-dan and tarpan are main rituals at Gaya and hence the shraddh performed there is also called pind-dan. Socially, when both parents have passed away, then performing shraddh at Gaya during the pitri-paksh is considered to be a duty of their progeny.

Gaya is a major pilgrimage site for Hindus, Buddhist and Jains. Especially for Hindus it is believed that ancestors expect their descendants to perform a shraddh for them in Gaya. During the pitri-paksh hundreds of thousands of Hindus from all over the world visit Gaya and perform the shraddh.

Generally, the process of shraddh is supposed to be held at numerous locations in Gaya over a period of a fortnight. However, it has been simplified and can be completed in a single day, to accommodate those who have limited time to perform it.

The one-day shraddh is performed at three locations that include the banks of the Phalgu River, in the courtyard of Vishnupad temple and near the Akshayvat tree. At each spot the performer or Yajman sits on the floor facing south and the priest facing the performer. The performer makes pind-balls of specific materials, which are procured before starting the ritual. The yajman performs the Puja as directed by the priest. The puja includes the offering of pinds and tarpans.

The procedure is repeated at each of the three locations. Pind at each location is also offered to presiding deities Phalgu River, Vishnupad temple and Akshayvat respectively. After the ceremony, the priest is offered Dakshina or remuneration for the service. On returning home, donations in the form of food, cash or feast depending upon the choice of the family are made.

If the performer arrives at Gaya in the morning, then after completing the shraddh one can depart the same evening. A local priest is required for performing the ritual. The priest can be arranged in advance online or though contacts or other relevant agencies.

It is believed that there is no need for further shraddh once it has been completed at Gaya.

Adapted practice – The death related rituals described above have an ancient origin. Many of the procedures have been modified and continue to be attuned to suit modern times and distant locations. Expatriate Hindus experience a social environment, which is quite different from India. Accordingly, they have modified rituals regarding death, cremation and shraddh.

For example, in Australia an old person in normal circumstances dies in a hospital or in an old person’s home. If the dying person or his/her family wish to recite sacred verses then a priest is arranged for recital.

After death, the corpse is stored in a mortuary and an arrangement is made with a funeral company, which provides the cremation facility.

On the cremation day, if the family decides to bring the body home then the dead body is brought home in a coffin and pre-cremation rituals are performed with the help of a priest. The body is then transported to the funeral house where family members and friends gather for a last visitation and goodbye.

Obituaries are read and sacred texts are recited. The pre-cremation ritual is performed. People offer flowers and walk around the coffin. After completing these rituals, the coffin is taken inside to the furnace area and finally delivered into the furnace.

If due to some reason the coffin is not brought home, and is delivered directly to the funeral house, then the rituals stated for home are performed there.

After a day or two, ashes are returned to the family. The shraddh including pind-dan and tarpan are performed at the home on the 11th or 12th day. It includes a feast for the family and friends. Some families organise a bhandara at a local temple and make donations to temples or charitable organisations. Usually, the deceased’s family makes the decisions regarding the format of the entire process.

Maha Kumbh Mela

The Kumbh Mela, literally translated as Pitcher Fair or Aquarius Fair, refers to the congregation of pilgrims in Prayagraj, Haridwar, Ujjain and Nasik on the riverbanks to take a Snan or dip in the rivers on designated auspicious dates during the period from Paush to Phalgun (January – February). It is the largest peaceful gathering of pilgrims in the world attended by people from around the globe.

The Kumbh Mela location in a particular year depends upon the position of planets, Sun and Jupiter in relation to Zodiac constellations. The fair is rotated between Haridwar on the banks of River Ganga, Nasik on the banks of River Godavari, Ujjain on the banks of River Khsipra and Prayagraj at Triveni Sangam, the confluence of three rivers namely Ganga, Yamuna and invisible Saraswati.

The Kumbh Mela lasts several weeks. It begins with the Paush Purnima Snan, and concludes on Maha Shivratri, the day of last important Snan.

Bathing in the rivers is the most important ritual for pilgrims. This can be done every day but certain days are considered more auspicious. The Makar Sankranti is believed to be the most important day for bathing. The largest number of people takes a dip in the waters on this day.

The ceremonial bath is known as Shahi Snan or Royal Bath. It is led by the Naga Sadhus, ascetic warriors, who immerse themselves in the sacred water in a large procession. Other sadhus and the general masses then follow the ritual of bathing.

Traditional Hindus believe that bathing in the sacred rivers on these occasions cleanses the mortals of sins incurred in the past and encourages pursuing a virtuous life in the future.

The most dedicated pilgrims and groups set up their residence on the site to experience the Mela from the beginning to the end. Others visit on the special bathing days. Many devotees stay for a certain period, observing austerity, giving alms and bathing at sunrise every day.

People from almost all sections of the Hindu religion and associated religious organisations attend the Mela. Sadhus from different denominations move in a procession, displaying the diversity of the Hindu ascetic community.

In addition to the bathing, many other religious, cultural, entertainment and social activities are performed during the Mela, promoting a range of ideas, objectives and philosophies.

Devotees sing and chant devotional songs, creating a spiritual ambience. Many guests engage in yoga and meditation techniques to strive for mental and physical wellbeing. Renowned saints and gurus deliver lectures on spiritual and philosophical topics imparting knowledge to the assembled audiences. Charitable organisations offer meals and provide other services free or at nominal costs.

The Kumbh Mela is an annual event, which follows a twelve-year cycle. In the twelfth year, it is known as Maha Kumbh and in the sixth year Ardh Kumbh. This year it is Maha Kumbh.

In 2025, Prayagraj is hosting the Maha Kumbh, which starts on January 13, 2025, with the Paush Purnima Snan, and concludes on February 26, 2025, the Maha Shivratri day. Other important dates for bathing are:
(1) Makar Sankranti (First Shahi Snan), 14 January 2025;
(2) Mauni Amavasya (Second Shahi Snan), 29 January 2025;
(3) Vasant Panchami (Third Shahi Snan), 3 February 2025, and
(4) Maghi Purnima, 12 February 2025.

About 400 million people are expected to participate in the Prayagraj Maha Kumbh Mela. The state government, which has significant experience in organising the Kumbh Mela of previous years, is responsible for orchestrating it also this year. Management and supervision for smooth running of an extensive infrastructure, with attention to ensuring safety and access to hygienic facilities for all attendees is the responsibility of the state administration.

During the Ardh Kumbh Mela in 2019 in Prayagraj, 200 million visitors were recorded, with about 50 million partaking in the ritual bath on the most auspicious day, the Makar Sankranti.

For the 2025 Maha Kumbh Mela, a designated area has been established as a separate administrative district for four months. The total area is divided into 25 sections spread over 40 square kilometres. It comprises accommodation, roads, electricity and water supplies, waste disposal, communication towers and 11 hospitals.

Temporary houses and large tents with suitable facilities are set up to accommodate the visitors. A typical large tent has space for up to 20,000 people to stay. People are expected to bathe in the waters along a 12 kilometre long stretch.

About 20,000 workers are responsible for keeping the area and its more than 150,000 temporary toilets clean. Around 50,000 security personnel are expected to keep the festivities safe.

More than 2,500 cameras, some powered by AI, are installed to scan crowd movement and send density information to four central control rooms, from where officials can quickly deploy personnel to avoid stampedes.

Genesis – It is believed that the Kumbh Mela has a prehistoric origin and relates to the tale of Samudra Manthan, the churning of the ocean, found in Vedic texts. In order to become immortal, Devas, deities and Daityas, demons decided to drink Amrit, ambrosia, which would be obtained from the ocean by its churning. They jointly started the churning and in the process, initially a number of other valuables appeared that were amicably distributed.

In the end, sage Dhanavantri surfaced from the ocean holding a Kumbh or pitcher filled with Amrit. Deities and demons started quarrelling over it. In the meantime, an eagle, the mount of Lord Vishnu, grasped the Kumbh with the goal of transporting it to Vishnu. En route, a part of the Amrit spilled over and fell into the rivers in Prayagraj, Haridwar, Nasik and Ujjain. As people learnt about this event, they started gathering and bathing in the waters of these places to ensure contact with the Amrit. Their assembly eventually resulted in the fair renowned as the Kumbh Mela.

Another reason for the name Kumbh Mela is the astrological position of planets in the zodiac. In Hindu astrology, the Kumbh Rashi stands for the zodiac sign Aquarius, the water carrier in Latin. The Kumbh Mela in Haridwar is held when the planet Jupiter is in the Aquarius constellation. This also leads to the assumption that Haridwar was the location where the initial Kumbh Mela was held.

There is no consensus on when the festival started. Gathering of people and taking a dip in sacred water is described in ancient texts. The Buddhist Chinese traveller Hiuen Tsang has mentioned the Hindu bathing rituals at the confluence of the rivers in Prayagraj in 644 CE. According to some scholars, this is the earliest surviving historical account of the Kumbh Mela. Some believe that Adi Shankaracharya started the gathering for philosophical discussion and debate to create consensus on religious topics among various denominations of the Hindus.

Tulasi Das has noted in Ram Charit Manas the gathering at the confluence of three rivers in Prayagraj during the Kumbh Mela.

The Kumbh Mela has been included in the UNESCO’s Representative List of Cultural Heritage of Humanity, which was established in 2008. It aims to record and ensure better protection of important cultural heritage events, skills and knowledge worldwide.

Specific days for bathing during the Kumbh Mela have religious significance, as described in the following sections.

Paush Purnima falls on the full moon day of the bright fortnight in the month of Paush. It is believed that a person who takes a holy bath at pilgrimage places on this auspicious day, donates to the poor and makes offering to the solar deity, the Sun, will be cleansed of their sins and attain moksha following death.

It is also known as Shakambhari Purnima named after Shakambhari, an incarnation of goddess Durga. People worship Goddess Durga and chant mantras to seek her divine blessings. Devotees observe Purnima Vrat, which is believed to bring good luck and remove all obstacles in life.

Makar Sankranti is celebrated on 14 January, marking the beginning of auspicious Uttarayan, the northward movement of the Sun. This occasion marks the transition of the Sun from Sagittarius or Dhanu to Capricorn or Makar in the zodiac. The festival is dedicated to the deity Sun. On this day, the Sun God is especially worshipped and offered prayers.

This festival is celebrated across different regions of India. It is known by varying names, including Makar Sankranti, Lohri, Kite festival, Magh Bihu and Pongal. Although the festival has different names, all observe strong and clear links with the harvest season for farmers.

A large fair takes place at Gangasagar in West Bengal where devotees come from far and wide to bathe at the site of River Ganga’s merging in the Bay of Bengal. The first Shahi Snan at the Kumbh Mela takes place on this day. Millions of people perform a holy dip at the confluence of the rivers Ganga, Yamuna and Saraswati in Prayagraj.

Makar Sankranti is a time of celebration and thanks giving, and is marked by a variety of rituals and charity.

Mauni Amavasya day falls on the 15th day of dark fortnight in the month of Magh. The Sanskrit word Maun means silence. People take the vows of silence and observe Maun Vrat during this day. It is believed that observing the Maun Vrat on the day of Mauni Amavasya helps purify the mind, body, and soul.

A ritual of offering of water, known as tarpan, to ancestors is performed on this day. People perform sacred rituals to seek blessings from the departed ancestors. On this day, the customary rituals include Pitri Tarpan, Pitri Dan and feeding of deserving persons. People donate to the needy and perform charity. It is a time of self-inspection and inner reflection. The second Shahi Snan at the Kumbh Mela takes place on this day.

Vasant Panchami is an important spring festival, which is celebrated on the fifth day of the bright fortnight in the month of Magh. It marks the start of preparations for welcoming spring season and Holi, the festival of colour, which occurs forty days later.

Vasant Panchami is dedicated to Saraswati, who is the goddess of knowledge, language, music and arts. She symbolises creative energy and power in all its forms. Educational institutions and temples organise special events dedicated to Saraswati. Poetic and musical gatherings are held in her reverence.

It is considered an auspicious day to start education. Many parents prefer their young children begin reading and writing on this propitious day. The third and last Shahi Snan takes place on this day during the Kumbh Mela.

Maghi Purnima falls on the full moon day in the bright fortnight in the month of Magh. The whole month of Magh is considered auspicious and Purnima being the last day becomes especially important for devout Hindus. This day marks the start of ripening of winter crops. Farmers offer prayers and express gratitude for a better harvest.

People bathe in holy waters, donate to charitable causes and offer prayers to their preferred deities. Many visit renowned sacred rivers such as Ganga, Yamuna and others. A dip at Sangam in Prayagraj is specifically desirable on this day. During the Kumbh Mela, a large number of people bathe at Triveni Sangam.

Maha Shivratri is a festival dedicated to Lord Shiv. It is celebrated on the thirteenth day of the dark fortnight in the month of Phalgun. According to one legend, on this night, Shiv performed the heavenly dance of creation, preservation and regeneration. Believers chant hymns, read Shiv scriptures and partake in the performance of the cosmic dance remembering Shiv’s omnipresence. According to another legend, Shiv drank the poison Halahal, which emerged during the Samudra Manthan on this day.

Being an auspicious day, bathing in sacred rivers during the Kumbh Mela is considered propitious. This is the last official Snan of the Kumbh Mela.

Significance – The Kumbh Mela plays significant roles in uniting the people of India by bringing them at one place from all over the country. It provides a communal spiritual space for Hindus to gather and participate in a major religious event. It is the time for devout Hindus to reflect on lives lived so far and yet to come, and become linked to mythological events of ancient times.

It also offers opportunities to discuss issues of common religious, social and cultural interest. For example, it had provided a forum for connecting the Indian population during the Indian Independence movement.  In 1906, the Sanatan Dharma Sabha met at the Prayagraj Kumbh Mela and resolved to start the Banaras Hindu University. In 1964, the Vishva Hindu Parishad was founded at the Haridwar Kumbh Mela. It continues to offer opportunities for politicians, social workers, religious leaders and the masses to gather in large numbers, reflect on commonalities and deliberate on issues of contemporary national interests.