Category: Indian Legacy

In March 2023, my wife and I travelled to Jakarta and Yogyakarta. Both cities are located on Java, the most populated island of Indonesia. Indonesia is a country, which consists of over seventeen thousand islands, including Sumatra, Java, Bali, Kalimanthan and others. The country is located in Southeast Asia and Oceania between the Indian and Pacific oceans. The name Indonesia is derived from the Greek words Indos and nesos, which mean Indian Islands.

India has been closely related to Indonesian islands through trade and cultural exchanges since ancient times. Long ago, Indian traders established their settlements on various islands. Subsequently Hindu and Buddhist kingdoms were founded on Indonesian archipelagos. Many cities, towns and objects still retain their Sanskrit names.

Buddhist kingdoms of Srivijaya in Sumatra and Shailendra in Java, and Hindu kingdoms of Sanjay and Majapahit in Java reigned over a large part of territories of modern Indonesia. Those kingdoms flourished over many centuries and contributed to the development of a unique culture and traditions that were aligned with Indian beliefs and institutions. Temples and monasteries, which they built, still dominate the landscape of Indonesian islands, including Bali and Java.

Bali is predominantly a Hindu majority Island. During our previous trip to Indonesia, we visited Bali and were impressed by the grandeur of Hindu monuments, temples and religious rituals practiced by the local population. This time we decided to visit Yogyakarta, which is located in central Java. The largest Buddhist temple Borobudur and one of the largest Hindu temple complexes, Prambanan, are both located near Yogyakarta. Merapi Mount with active volcanic activities is about an hour’s drive from Borobudur and Prambanan.

Australian tourists generally enter Indonesia at Denpasar in Bali or Jakarta in Java if travelling by air. Yogyakarta is well connected with both locations by regular flights. We chose Jakarta for our entry to Indonesia.

Jakarta is the national capital of Indonesia, and is located in the northwest of the Java Island. It is the largest city in Southeast Asia with population estimated to be over eleven million in 2023. Jakarta is the Javanese pronunciation of Sanskrit word ‘Jay Karta’, which means “the achiever of victory”. Being the capital city, Jakarta is the political, economic and cultural centre of Indonesia. During the Dutch colonial era it was called Batavia.

We stayed in Jakarta for a few days and visited some of the local tourist attractions. Notable among them were the Merdeka Square, Monumen Nasional, Museum Nasional, Presidential Palace, Masjid Istiqlal, Cathedral church and a monument of Arjun on a chariot depicting a scene from the Mahabharat. All these attractions are in close proximity to the Merdeka Square.

Merdeka Square is a large square located in central Jakarta. Merdeka is the Indonesian word for freedom or independence. In September 1945, Sukarno, the Indonesian independence leader, declared independence from colonial rule at a grand meeting held in the square. The square measures around one-square kilometre in area and is one of the largest such areas in the world. It is well maintained, with coverings of flowers and greenery. Trees enclose some outer sections of the square. A number of statues and monuments are installed in its different sections. The square is a popular destination for local residents for sports and recreational activities, especially on weekends.

The National Monument, also called Monas (Monumen Nasional), is located in the centre of the square. It is a 132m-high tower surrounded by spacious paved areas near its ground floor, and also on a higher level. Below the monument is an underground museum that displays exhibits highlighting events of Indonesian history from the ancient period to modern age. Hindu and Buddhist periods are munificently displayed in the museum. The monument is reached through an underground tunnel from the ticketing area. Visitors are allowed access to the top of the tower by a lift. Tourists crowd the area, and even during a lean period, one has to wait for hours to obtain access to the top floor of the monument.

The monument hosts national events such as military parades as well as civil demonstrations. Surrounding the Monument is a park with a musical fountain and a deer enclosure, where they roam freely.

Masjid Istiqlal is the largest mosque in Southeast Asia. Its dome is 45m across and the minaret tops 90m high. Directly opposite the mosque is a huge cathedral church.

The Presidential palace, National Museum and many government buildings are located around the Merdeka Square. Not far from the Museum, Arjun’s monument is a reminder of the ancient Indian connection of the region.

The National Museum is full of displays depicting Hindu gods and goddesses, kings and queens, Buddha and many stone pillars with Sanskrit inscriptions. At the entrance of the museum, there is large forecourt, which is full of objects of Hindu and Buddhist origin, found in different regions of the Indonesian archipelagos.

From Jakarta, we travelled to Yogyakarta. It is around an hour’s flight from Jakarta.

Yogyakarta is the capital of Special Region of Yogyakarta in central Java. Yogyakarta is named after the Indian city Ayodhya, the birthplace of Shree Ram, the main protagonist of the Ramayan. Its English translation is a “city fit to prosper”. The major attractions in the city are the Sultan’s Palace, known as Kraton, Taman Sari (also a palace), fort Benteng Vredeburg and a number of museums.

The region was previously known as Bhumi Mataram, the Javanese word derived from Sanskrit for “Mother Earth”. King Sanjay was the founder and the first king of the Mataram kingdom. Contemporary to Sanjay was another king named Shailendra, who ruled the adjoining region. The Sanjay dynasty kings were Shaivite Hindus and Shailendra kings were followers of Mahayan Buddhism. These two dynasties were great builders.

Major tourist attractions outside the city such as Borobudur, Prambanan and other Buddhist and Hindu temples were built during their time. An adventure tourist attraction, the Merapi mount with active volcanic activity, is also located in this region.

Borobudur is translated as ‘Buddha Vihar’ or ‘Buddha on Hills’ or Supreme Buddha. “Boro” means Vihar as well as hills and supreme, and “Budur” means Buddha. It is the largest Buddhist temple in the world. It is a UNESCO listed World Heritage Site. Borobudur is located 42 km from Yogyakarta. Mountains and hills surround it. It was built between the end of the 7^th century and the beginning of the 8^th century. It has the form of a Stupa, which contains sacred objects as a symbol of respect for Buddha. Shailendra dynasty kings who ruled over the area from the end of the 7^th century to the 9^th century built this grand temple.

The base of the temple is 123m x123m square and its original height was 42 meters. The height has reduced due to damage from lightening strikes and earthquakes.  The temple consists of nine stacked platforms, of which six are square and three circular. A central dome tops it. It is decorated with 2,672 relief panels and originally there were 504 Buddha statues. Seventy-two Buddha statues, each seated inside a perforated stupa surround the central dome. The relief panels depict the life story of Buddha from birth to his Nirvan. The design of the temple conforms to the style of Mahayan Buddhism.

All visitors must wear specially designed slippers made of leaves to ascend the temple. The access road to the temple passes through a huge park lined with trees and flower gardens. Established Ashok and Peepal trees are grown along the access route. Their original saplings were brought from India.

Borobudur lay hidden under layers of volcanic ash and jungle growth for centuries. It is believed that the temple was deserted when the population converted to Islam in the 15^th century.  It was rediscovered and unearthed in 1835. Subsequently through many restoration works, the temple has attained its current form. It attracts a large number of tourists from all over the world.

A number of other Buddhist temples including the Pawan and Mendut temples are located in the vicinity of Borobudur.

Merapi Mount is an active volcanic site, which last erupted on 11 March 2023. The mount can be seen from the Borobudur temple on a clear day. One can see smoke emitting from the mount cone. The word Merapi is derived from Meru, the legendary mountain, which is believed to be located on the centre of the earth. Tour operators arrange tours up to the base of the mountain. A museum located at the base displays scenes relating to the mount, terrain and volcanic eruptions.

Prambanan is the Javanese pronunciation of Sanskrit Parabrahma, the supreme God. The term Prambanan is used for the Hindu temple complex, which consists of around two hundred forty temples. It is a UNESCO listed World Heritage Site. The complex is arranged in three rectangular courtyards. Sixteen temples were originally built in the central courtyard. The remaining temples were housed in the second courtyard, which surrounded the central area. The third courtyard, surrounding the second, was a green space with an external wall.

Sanjay dynasty kings built this temple complex. The first temple was built around 850 AD. According to an inscription found in the region, the Shiva temple was inaugurated on 12 November 856. It was built to honour Lord Shiva, and its original name was Shivalay, the house of Shiva. The whole complex was completed over many years.

The temples were abandoned in the middle of the tenth century. A devastating eruption of the Mount Merapi volcano or a political power struggle is assumed to be the reason for the neglect. The temples collapsed during a major earthquake in the 16th century.

In the eighteen-century, the ruins attracted the attention of western archaeologists who prepared reports on them. The government of the time took a keen interest in the findings. Subsequently, restoration works started which continue to date.

The main temples in the central courtyard were dedicated to Shiva, Brahma, Vishnu, their mounts and some other still unidentified deities. They are the main attractions of the site and are identified as Prambanan temple. It is the largest Hindu temple complex of ancient Java.

The Shiva temple is the largest building located in the centre. It is 47m high and its base measures 34m x 34m. Its Garbh-Grih is located at elevation and is accessible through steep stone stairs. Large standing statues of Shiva Mahadev, Mahaguru Agastya, Mahishasur Mardini and a sitting statue of Ganesh are located in separate rooms in four directions of the temple at the Garbh-Grih level. They are accessible through their own distinct stairways.

The Brahma temple is located to the south of the Shiva temple. Its’ square base measures 20m x 20m and it is 33m high. It has only one room as Garbh-Grih accommodating the statue of Brahma. It can be reached through a stone stairway.

The Vishnu temple is located to the north of the Shiva temple. It is identical in layout and structure to the Brahma temple, with a statue of Vishnu in the Garbh-Grih. Many visitors can be seen in the mode of supplication to the divine statues.

Secondary temples that include the Nandi temple, Hansa temple and Garuda temple are dedicated to their respective mounts and face the primary temples. In addition, there are other temples in the central courtyard. Visitors are allowed a Darshan of statues in the main three temples. The Garbh-Grihs of other temples are not open to visitors. None of the temples is used for active worship.

The temple walls are full of relief panels, depicting stories from ancient India. The reliefs on the Shiva and Brahma temples display stories from the Ramayan. The Vishnu temple wall reliefs depict stories relating to Krishna from the Bhagavat Puran. A regular show of the Ramayan ballet or Ramleela episodes is played in an area adjoining the main temples.

The temples in the central court are maintained in good condition and are the main attraction of the site. To view the temples in the outer areas, one has to ride a car-train, which is driven regularly in the complex.

In addition to the main Prambanan temple, there are many other temples in the Yogyakarta region. Notable among them are the Sajiwan temple, Plaosan temple and Kalasan temple. The whole region reminds visitor of its glorious ancient Indian heritage.

Attraction of local inhabitants to their heritage is noticeable in this region. Many shops have their Sanskrit names. Statues of Ganesh, Buddha, Lakshmi, Saraswati, Garuda and other Indian characters can be seen in hotels and shops.

My wife and I travelled to Thailand and Laos to familiarise with their culture and history. Both countries are located on the Indochina peninsula of Southeast Asia. The majority of the population in both countries follow Theravad Buddhism, which has close cultural and historical links with India.

Thailand is officially known as the Kingdom of Thailand. The kingdom was known as Siam until 1939. The word Siam is the local pronunciation of the Sanskrit word Shyam, which means dark or brown, and is also one of the alternate names of Lord Krishna. Myanmar, Laos, Cambodia and Malaysia share its landline borders. The country has long coastlines in the gulf of Thailand and Andaman Sea, and shares maritime borders also with India, Indonesia and Vietnam.

The official name of Laos is Lao People’s Democratic Republic. It is a socialist country with a single legal political party. The Party through its Politburo and Central Committee determines government policies for the country. The country is landlocked and shares its borders with Thailand, Myanmar, China, Vietnam and Cambodia.

Thailand – The word Thai means ‘free man’ in the Thai language and Thailand means the land of free people. Thailand has a constitutional monarchy with a democratic form of government. The kings in Thailand are referred to as King Ram with successive numbers. The name Ram was adopted from the name of the Hindu god Ram, an incarnation of Vishnu. The current king is the King Ram X.

The country has a population of around 70 million. More than half of its residents are urban dwellers. Bangkok is the capital and the largest city with a population of over 11 million. It has two airports named Suvarnabhumi airport and Don Mueang airport. We landed at the Suvarnabhumi airport.

The capital city Bangkok is officially known in Thai as Krung Thep Maha Nakhon, which is composed of Pali and Sanskrit language root words. It is translated in brief as ‘the great city of angels’. The full-length translation of the name is ‘the city of angels, great city of immortals, magnificent city of nine gems, seat of the king, city of royal palaces, city of gods incarnate erected by Vishvakarma at Indra’s behest’.

Bangkok finds its origin as a small trading post during the Ayutthaya Kingdom in the 15^th century. Because of its strategic location near the mouth of the river, the town gradually increased in importance. After the fall of Ayutthaya in 1767, the newly crowned King Taksin established his capital on the western banks of the River Chao Phraya, which became the base of the Thonburi Kingdom.

In 1782, the King Rama I succeeded Taksin and moved the capital to Rattanakosin on the eastern banks of the River Chao Phraya. His domain became known as the Rattanakosin Kingdom. He started the Chakri dynasty, which is still the ruling royal house of Thailand. The City Pillar, a tourist attraction, was erected on 21 April 1782, which is regarded as the date of foundation of Bangkok as the capital. It eventually grew and became the site of two capital cities, Thonburi and Rattanakosin, which are now central districts of Bangkok.

The city has numerous objects of tourist attractions that include the Grand Palace, Buddhist temples such as Wat Arun, and Wat Phra Kaew among many others, museums, parks, monuments and large shopping centres. The term Wat denotes a Buddhist temple. The River Chao Phraya is the main waterway in the city, on whose banks many tourist attractions are located.

The Grand Palace is a part of large complex that encompasses Wat Phra Kaew, museums, halls and royal buildings. It is a former royal residence, which is now only used on ceremonial occasions. Visitors are allowed to survey only a section of the Grand Palace grounds. Many buildings serving specific royal purposes have intricate designs with Hindu and Buddhist motifs.

Wat Phra Kaew temple complex is the spiritual core of Thai Buddhism. King Ram I commissioned the temple’s construction in 1783. Since then, successive kings have been involved in adding, restoring and embellishing its buildings during their reigns as a means of gaining religious merit and glorifying their dynasty.

Many important state and royal ceremonies are held within the temple each year, presided by the king in person and attended by government officials. This designates the temple the nation’s preeminent place of worship and a national shrine for the monarchy and the state. Throughout the years, kings have donated sacred and valuable objects to the temple, making it a treasury as well.

The Emerald Buddha is enshrined in the Wat Phra Kaew and hence the temple is commonly known as the Temple of Emerald Buddha. It is considered to be an object of national veneration. The statue of Buddha is carved in the mode of meditation from a block of Jasper gemstone. It is located high up on a tiered base in an altar of wood designed to represent the aerial chariot of a heavenly being. Because of its green colour it is called Emerald Buddha.

Ramakian Murals depicting episodes from the Thai version of the Ramayan are displayed along the Wat Phra Kaew temple complex perimeter, starting from the entrance gate. They are under cover and spread over 2 km on the wall. They are well maintained and easy to understand. Descriptions are provided near the scenes.

Wat Arun is located in the Thonburi district on the western banks of the River Chao Phraya. On this site, there had previously been a temple from at least the late 16^th century. After the fall of Ayutthaya, King Taksin came across the shrine at sunrise and interpreted it as an auspicious sign. He took control of the site and established the new capital. He built a royal palace and a temple. The Emerald Buddha, which was brought from Vientiane, the capital of Laos, was housed in the temple.

After the capital and the Emerald Buddha were relocated to the other side of the river in Rattanakosin, King Ram II renamed the temple after the Hindu god Arun also know as Usha or Dawn.

It is believed that King Ram II himself designed the main Buddha image at the temple. He started building the 82 m high central Khmer style tower, which was completed by King Ram III. Slightly lower towers are located on the four sides of the central one. Steep stairs lead to the top of the central tower. Tourists generally climb up to the lower level. The temple looks superb in size, designed with ornate floral mosaics made from broken, multihued porcelain.

Frequent cross-river ferries run over to Wat Arun Pier on the Chao Phraya River. The magnificent towers of the temple present a mesmerising view from the river.

Ayutthaya – From Bangkok we undertook a daytrip to Ayodhya, spelled Ayutthaya in Thai English. The town is located about 90 km north of Bangkok. Most tourists visit the site known as Ayutthaya Historical Park, which is the area of the former capital of Siam, Ayutthaya.

King Uthong founded Ayutthaya in 1350 on an island surrounded by three rivers. He was also known by the name King Ram Thibodhi I. Scholars are divided over his origin. Some consider him of Khmer origin from Cambodia. Others believe him to be from the Chola kingdom in India. Despite his uncertain origin, naming his capital Ayodhya suggests that he must have been a devout follower of the Hindu god Ram.

According to contemporary sources and maps, Ayutthaya was laid out according to systematic and rigid city planning grids, consisting of roads, canals, and moats around all the principal structures. The scheme took maximum advantage of the city’s position in the midst of three rivers. It employed hydraulic systems for water management, which was pioneering technology at the time.

The capital flourished for more than 400 years and was an influential centre of power and commerce in the region. During its heyday, Ayutthaya had magnificent palaces, temples and well maintained public buildings.

The city was attacked and destroyed by the Burmese army in 1767. It was scorched to the ground and its inhabitants were forced to abandon the city. The city was never rebuilt.

The site was added to UNESCO’s World Heritage List as Ayutthaya Historical Park in 1991. The park comprises four major temples known as Wat Phra Ram, Wat Phra Si Sanphet, Wat Mahathat, Wat Ratchaburana, and the Royal Palace and Wiharn Phra Mongkol Bophit. Tour organisers include these famous sights in the itinerary.

Outside the park itself, historical sites are randomly scattered along the west, south and eastern parts of the outer sections. Many of the archaeological finds from the ruins around Ayutthaya are exhibited at Chao Sam Phraya National Museum. By seeing the remains at the site and displays in the museum, one can imagine the status of the kingdom in its glory.

Laos – Laos is the only landlocked country in Southeast Asia. Nearly three-quarters of Laos is covered in mountains and forested hills. The current population of the country is around 7.7 million.

Laos finds its origin in the historical kingdom of Lancang, which held the area of present day Laos from 1353 to 1707. Following the period of internal conflict, Lancang broke up into three separate kingdoms, Luang Phrabang, Vientiane and Chapasak. In 1893, the three kingdoms became a French protectorate and were jointly named Laos. It became an independent country in 1953.

From Bangkok’s Don Mueang airport, we flew to Wattay airport in Vientiane. Vientiane is the capital and largest city of Laos with a population of around one million. The city is located on the banks of Mekong River, the third largest river in Asia. The Mekong River is vital as a transportation route for cargo and passengers, a source of electricity at dams, a water supply system for crops, and a home to fish, an important food in the diet of Laotian people.

Vientiane contains a number of tourist attractions, which we visited during our stay. Important among them are Wat Si Saket, Wat Chanthabuli, Wat Ong Teu Mahavihan, Patuxai, Pha That Luang, and River Side Night Market.

Wats – Wat Si Saket is the city’s oldest surviving temple. In its name, Si is derived from the Sanskrit title of veneration Shree. Saket is an alternate name of Ayodhya.  The temple was built in 1818 in a contemporary style of Buddhist architecture at the time, with surrounding terraces and an ornate five-tiered roof. The temple houses a museum with a large collection of items relating to its history and religion.

Wat Chanthabuli and Wat Ong Teu Mahavihan are other temples located along the River and are good locations for meditation and prayers.

The Patuxai, which is translated as Victory Gate, is a massive concrete arch. It is a reminiscent of the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. The monument commemorates Laos’s resilience and eventual independence, as well as recognising those who lost their lives in the wars for independence.

Its exterior features Buddhist symbols and Hindu deities, with 5 ornate towers built in the traditional Laotian style. The 4 corner towers and 5th central tower that crowns the arch symbolise the 5 Buddhist principles of thoughtful amiability, flexibility, honesty, honour and prosperity. Intricate carvings of lotus leaves, statues of Apsaras, the divine dancers and Nagas, serpents are carved on the Patuxai. The structure has beautiful walls and ceilings with paintings of gods, goddesses and elephants.

Pha That Luang or Great Stupa is a large gold covered Buddhist Stupa. Emperor Ashok of the Indian Mauryan Empire is believed to have sent Buddhist missionaries to the ancient kingdom of the region. They brought a sacred relic believed to be the breastbone of Buddha and enshrined it into the stupa in the 3^rd century BC. The structure was rebuilt in the 13^th century as a Khmer temple, which later fell into ruin. It was reconstructed in the early 20^th century. It is regarded as the most important national monument in Laos as well as a national symbol.

The Vientiane Night Market takes place along the Mekong Riverfront, where one can see rows of stalls selling handicrafts, clothes, and electronics. There is also a children’s playground, a temple, a flower garden and an imposing statue of Chao Anouvong, a national leader, pointing across the Mekong River. Numerous restaurants serve local food along the riverside. There is an amusement park for children. In the night, one can see the lights in Thailand on the opposite side of the river. A long walking path is built along the riverbank.

From Vientiane, we returned to Bangkok and then to Brisbane. In the departure section of the Suvarnabhumi airport, there is a huge scene depicting the churning of the cosmic ocean during the tortoise incarnation of Lord Vishnu. Throughout the trip, we sensed with joy and recognition the influence of ancient India on the religion, language and names of persons and places of the region.